Rhythm and vines

We go organic with this month's wine selection. Garth Gallaway doesn't mind at all.

New Zealand now has vineyards that use biodynamic techniques to make their wines.

There are too many aspects to the methodology to do justice to them in this column, but well-known Australian wine writer Max Allen thinks of biodynamics on three levels. First is the physical level, which involves the use of biodynamic methods such as composting. The second, cosmic level involves the concept that everything, including the rhythm of the moon and planets, are interconnected. In practical terms, this will affect when compost is applied to the soil, for example. Thirdly, there is the spiritual level.

The passion and fervour of the biodynamic winemakers is almost, it seems, excruciating and somewhat overwhelming. But do the grapes grown make better wines, or wines that are discernibly different? I suggest you be the judge, but for this writer, at least, it is easy to enjoy the prospect of wines produced in an environment of such dedication. It's even better that no fungicides, herbicides, pesticides or other chemical has been applied in the grape-growing process. It seems to me that the producers of wines using biodynamic techniques are legitimately entitled to claim the drinker may genuinely enjoy that elusive holy grail of imbibing wine: terroir.

Pyramid Valley Vineyards Calvert Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008 - $52 (Garth's pick)

While Pyramid Valley is a North Canterbury vineyard, the grapes used in this wine are looked after by the Felton Road team in Central Otago. This pinot noir has a perfumed and slightly brambly nose. There are full plum and dark cherry flavours, with hints of mushroom. The wine is notable for its smooth finish. Top class.

Pyramid Valley Vineyards Kerner Estate Pinot Blanc 2007 - $29

This pale-gold wine is delicious. Pinot blanc is a little grown varietal in New Zealand and this wine is an example of just how good it can be. It is a powerful, fruit-driven wine complemented by gentle acidity and oak. A refreshing drink, Pyramid Valley's Pinot Blanc makes for beautiful summer drinking: it's a must-try for all wine lovers.

Millton Opou Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 - $27.50

Millton is a certified organic vineyard that has been a leading producer for many years. This is a sumptuous chardonnay that is clean and firm. It has a butterscotch nose and citrus flavours that are complemented by stone fruit and a lovely toasty oak influence, which provides a memorable, lengthy finish. Excellent value.

Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2008 - $27

This is about as good as New Zealand sauvignon blanc gets. Many people clamber to drink sauvignon blanc as soon as it is released. Leave it for a year; because of the age, the acidity is less dominant and the flavours and winemaking skills are allowed to blossom. There is a luxurious mouth-feel and the wine is fruity, balanced, harmonious and just plain gorgeous.

Felton Road Pinot Noir 2008 - $55

A terrific Central Otago wine by a vineyard that has quickly established iconic status, and rightly so. This pinot noir is still youthful and consequently firm. It is a wine of considerable complexity. There are red cherry and raspberry flavours, with a lingering savoury finish. Superb.