Le plonk

April 10

Let there be light

We went to Le Plonk for a glass of wine before dining elsewhere. I've always felt a wine bar is an excellent place to meet, have a drink and a chat before moving on. Yet, the first thing that struck us at Le Plonk was its darkness. It was 6.30pm on a summer's evening and I felt as though I was walking into a dimly lit cave.

The seating is spacious and luxurious. There are large leather sofas, ideal to recline on at the end of the day and, once my eyes adjusted, we selected a couple and relaxed into them. Just the ticket.

Even though there were two staff members talking at the bar, our arrival seemed to go unnoticed. I pulled myself away from my cosy retreat and grabbed my own wine list and menu.

The wine list is extensive, well-priced, and there is something for everyone. You can have a 200ml méthode traditionnelle for $10 or, if you have more expensive tastes, a bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1986 for $1695.

We settled for the Greystone Waipara Riesling 2007, a gold medal winner at the 2008 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, and a bowl of spiced almonds. Our waitress, who was knowledgeable about the wine, confidently recommended it, brought glasses and a bucket, and poured the wine elegantly. The wine was at a perfect temperature - not ice cold, as so many bars serve their white wines. The bucket was placed beside a predecessor's empty beer bottle and there the discarded bottle remained until another waiter noticed it some time later.

There are a few window seats and patrons can stand or sit on the footpath if a cigarette or, ironically, fresh air is desired. When we settled into the sofas there were two men enjoying a beer and a cigarette outside. With a gentle easterly blowing, a small amount of the smoke wafted back into the bar; something I found strangely alluring and completely inoffensive, 24 years after knocking the habit. The smokers left and we then occupied their seats; two of us outside, two of us inside.

The wine was superb, served in generous glasses. The almonds failed to materialise.

My overall impression was of a wine bar that offers a terrific selection of wine and simple tapas and canapés, but, for me, heading into the dark of the night early on a sunny evening is not particularly attractive. Le Plonk could do with a freshen-up. Its main feature is a stunningly impressive wine cellar, which is visible for all to see. I feel this fine feature looked strangely out of place in an otherwise dark room.

Good attentive service as soon as one arrives, particularly on a quiet evening, and a lighter atmosphere would make the bar far more appealing to me. I suspect Le Plonk has a good late-night following and that might be its market. I'll try it again on a winter's night when the fire is on and there is a warm red nearby.

Where: 213 Manchester St.

Hours: Monday-Friday 3pm-late; Saturday-Sunday 4pm-late.

Wine: An outstanding selection.

Prices: Reasonable, with a broad range.

Service: Knowledgeable, but lacking attention to detail.

Ambience: Dark.

Amenities: Average.