Oh what a riesling

Despite there being several top-class NZ producers, riesling continues to be misunderstood in this part of the world.

It's ironic that the riesling grape has high acidity, like sauvignon blanc, yet many say riesling is too sweet. The driest of rieslings can make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up much more than a sauvignon blanc. It is, of course, true that many rieslings have a high residual sugar content and they taste sweet; the key then lies with the skill of the winemaker to balance the acid in the grape with the sweetness. Rieslings made in the medium-sweet style should be complemented by acidity, meaning there is no sickly sweetness; just mouth-filling, lovely flavours that typically include lemon/lime, apple, honey and stone fruit.

Recently, I heard three friends have formed Auburn Wines, based in Lowburn, Central Otago. They have a mutual love of riesling and have decided to focus solely on this varietal. It's courageous to focus solely on one grape; even more so if riesling is the choice. I love the variety of styles and the quality of the rieslings produced in this country and abroad, but New Zealanders do not share the rest of the world's appreciation of the varietal. The stated goal of Auburn Wines is to eventually produce a riesling from each sub-region of Central Otago. This is a delicious, innovative and commendable approach and, if the two wines sampled in this tasting are anything by which to go, drinkers should be in for a treat.

 Auburn Lowburn Riesling 2009 - $30

A terrifically clean and refreshing riesling, this is made in a lighter style (only 9 per cent alcohol). Its nose is attractive and the flavours are dominated by nectarine, peach and citrus. An excellent first vintage, with the promise of more fine wines to come.

Available: mail order from www.auburnwines.com

Tresillian Dry Riesling 2008 - RRP $21.50

From a boutique West Melton producer comes this lovely dry riesling. If your preference is for something not as sweet as some aromatic wines, this is perfect. There are full flavours of apple and grapefruit together with a firm acidity that delivers a lasting and harmonious finish.

Available: Hemingways

Giesen Canterbury 'The Brothers' Riesling 2005 - $32.99

A gloriously floral nose leads you into a succulent, fruit-driven wine that is deliciously flavoured by tangerine and honey. A good touch of acid ensures the sweetness does not overpower this wine. A taste of Alsace made right here in Canterbury and a very appealing alcohol level of 7.5 per cent.

Available: Vino Fino

Greenhough Apple Valley Riesling 2009 RRP - $20.99

This Upper Moutere riesling has a very floral bouquet; there is a hint of honey and citrus and, appropriately given its origin, plenty of apple on the palate. I really enjoyed the elegance of this wine. It is gentle and refined, with the sweetness perfectly balanced by firm acidity.

Available: The Village Grape, Sumner; Vino Fino

Auburn Twilight Riesling 2009 - $30

Beautifully named, this wine has a soft mouth-feel, stone fruit flavours and is elegant and inviting. It's also a little unusual (fruit harvested sweet, made dry) and the winemaker says it will only be made occasionally. The lack of acidity makes this riesling ideal as an aperitif.

Available: mail order from www.auburnwines.com