Cartel

July 10

Shabby chic by Jamie Hanton

Cartel was one of the first bars to open in His Lordship's Lane and SOL Square, in the halcyon days of 2007. 

It was a pioneer of the Christchurch bar scene, renowned for its rough-and-ready interior - which has been imitated across the board, although never surpassed - its cocktail list and its raffish personality. It was the No 1 location for indie types and successful graphic designers with plaid shirts and neat haircuts. A year later, the SOL area became The Strip part deux and Cartel a victim of its own success, as the crowds and their dogs piled in. Cartel's interior is not large - part of its inherent beauty - and it now heaves at the seams every weekend, patrons bursting out into the genuinely rustic chairs surrounding the roaring fireplace in the lane. 

The Saturday we attended was no different and, after we managed to collect enough odd chairs from about the bar to make a grouping suitable for three, we squeezed up to the bar, where sheets from the menu sat glued inside a second-hand book on Native American Mysticism, just one of the many unique touches that makes Cartel an icon. Always one for an alluring title, I chose the Cherry Popper ($14) - like a liquid Chupa Chup of goodness - from the 'Not Classico ... Yet' menu, which carries a selection of more avant garde cocktails. 'The Classico' features old favourites such as the Mojito ($14), which was understated at first, but soon gave way to a heady sugar-syrup kick, edging it over the sweetness threshold into something vaguely sickly. 

Miraculously, we arrived back at our outpost with our drinks intact. It was, without exaggerating, nigh on impossible to move. A turn of the head one way would have your face implanted in a bag, the other way a crotch. However, for those who do not suffer from enochlophobia, Cartel is one of the liveliest and most good-natured bars in the city and, on this count, the crowd cannot be resented. Bob Dylan and The Doors were humming throughout the place and, with the stripped-back brickwork burning with candlelight, the tiny bar could have been a dingy road bar in New Mexico or Arizona.

Unfortunately, the bathrooms took the comparison too far and the two grimy unisex stalls were always occupied, forcing those waiting to loiter in the equally unpleasant hallway separating the bar and the bathrooms. Yet, back out in the bar, this was easily forgotten, as we hunkered into a recently acquired pillow-filled corner and watched contentedly as the live music warmed up.

Perhaps anticipating a less than sparkling Sunday, our next order was the Ancient Chinese Recipe ($15) - a geographical mash-up of the Far East, Oceania and South America that combined cold green tea, feijoa vodka, Agavero, fresh basil and honey. It was unanimously voted the most delicious and spuriously healthy drink of the night.

Service was up and down, as is to be expected on a Saturday, but was generally efficient and free of that special brand of confusion that often plagues small serving areas. Impressively, when I inquired about the relative qualities of two pinot noirs, I was told the cheaper '06 King's Road from Waipara ($10) was better. The wine was delicious and such honesty cannot be overlooked.

Snacks are available for those not wanting a lot to eat but other culinary options are supplied by surrounding eateries The Mexican Café and The Fish & Chip Shop.

Cartel is a unique mixture of scruffy class. For those wanting the old-school experience, head along midweek or at midnight. However, a rambunctious Friday or Saturday night never goes amiss, especially when the hustle and bustle of humanity gathers for a round of top-quality cocktails.  

Where: His Lordship's Lane.

Hours: Mon-Fri 4pm-late; Sat-Sun 5.30pm-late.

Wine: A full international list covering bubbles, whites, and reds.

Prices: Cocktails from $14, wine about the $10 mark, beer by the quart for $10.

Service: Generally excellent, with some patchy waiting times.

Ambience: Miniature hacienda house party. 

Amenities: Have seen better days.