Matawhero makes a comeback

Matawhero Wines had fallen off the radar since its first vintage in 1975. But now it's back, full of promise.

Sweet resurrection by Garth Gallaway

I was delighted to receive a few Matawhero wines for tasting recently. Located near Gisborne, Matawhero Wines was established by Bill Irwin in 1968 and is largely responsible for putting gewürztraminer on the map in this country. The winery released its first vintage in 1975, but had fallen off the radar, until now.

Matawhero's gewürztraminers were reputedly wonderful in the late 1970s and it is said even the Queen was partial to a glass or two. I first became acquainted with this wine in the early 1980s, when it was spicy and fragrant; a perfect introduction to this glorious varietal. In the mid-1990s, wine production ceased and one of New Zealand's wine pioneers was lost.  

The grapes were eventually replaced by crops, until Kirsten and Richard Searle, owners of nearby Brunton Road Wines, bought the land with the dream of resurrecting the vineyard, which they have. The grapes for their current releases come from producers in the area, but they have re-planted grapes at Matawhero and are expecting fruit for the next vintage. 

The merlot is a no-nonsense, drink-now red that displays nice fruit flavours with good balance. The arneis, which I also tasted, is a lovely appetiser; a sturdy white with tropical fruit flavours and a delightful, balanced sweetness. 

All in all, it is good news to see an old winery being resurrected and I await with interest the vintages to follow this promising start.

 Matawhero Chardonnay 2009 - $25

This chardonnay has a nose that promises a fulfilling experience. There is a bouquet of apple and melon and tastes of butterscotch and pineapple. From the wonderful chardonnay-producing area of Gisborne, I feel this wine lacks a little bit of acidity but it's well worth a try and is reasonably priced.

Available: Vino Fino

Villa Maria Ihumatao Vineyard Gewürztraminer 2009 - $30

A bouquet of roses greets the drinker of this wine. Still young and pale, this is a seriously good example of how good New Zealand's gewürztraminer can be. The palate is slightly spicy and the off-dry characteristic will appeal to those who resist the sweeter versions of this variety. Top class.

Available: South City New World

Vidal Reserve Stopbank Pinot Noir 2007 - $40

Proof pinot noir can be made with Hawke's Bay grapes, this is a pleasant wine with a distinguished nose. There are lovely red berry flavours and it's very drinkable. It does, however, lack the complexity and impressiveness of some pinot noir from the cooler climes.

Widely available

Domaine Sarda-Malet Reserve 2005 - $42

From the Côtes du Roussillon comes a booming, almost medicinal, red wine. Composed of syrah, mourvèdre, grenache and carignan, this is a rugged but charming red. Tastes of tobacco and black fruit predominate. Flavoursome, wholesome and well worth pairing with roast beef on a winter's night!

Available: Mediterranean Food Warehouse