Pegasus Bay Winery Restaurant

March 10

Waipara serves up a dining experience to remember, proving old favourites can keep on giving.

Vine dining by Catherine Nind

"Life's too short to drink bad wine," says a quote on a wall at Pegasus Bay Winery.

It's too short to eat bad food, too. Fortunately, at this oasis in the parched Waipara Valley, you are unlikely to do either.

We first discovered this establishment on a day trip to Hanmer Springs, a short detour off State Highway 1, 35 minutes drive north of Christchurch. It has since become our first choice when we want a very special lunch.

Our most recent visit was on a sunny Saturday; the barometer was rising and the children were staying with grandparents. A leisurely trip into the country with the promise of delicious food at the end appealed. 

Despite arriving a little early for our booking, we were warmly welcomed and decided to start in the tasting room, sampling some of Pegasus Bay's opera-themed reserve wines. We particularly liked the 2006 Maestro, a rich malbec-merlot blend, and the full-flavoured Bel Canto and Aria rieslings, which are produced only in exceptional years. 

The winery has a comfortable dining room - the two buttoned leather couches set before a fireplace would be particularly appealing in winter - but, on this day, diners were being served in the beautiful and expansive gardens, which are an attraction in their own right. We were shown to a table for two set on a leafy verandah, but when we expressed a preference to sit in the sun, the obliging staff quickly whisked it on to the lawn.

In indulgent mood, we ordered a half bottle of Laurent Perrier Champagne and set to studying the menu. Pegasus Bay celebrates fine and fresh ingredients and showcases local foods in season. The main dishes on offer on the Italian-influenced summer selection included crisp Muscovy duck with a sour cherry pinot jus, char-grilled tuna with panzanella salad, aged rib-eye steak, North Canterbury lamb cutlets or pork, a black risotto, and a polenta and mascarpone tart with organic broad beans, zucchini flowers, tomato and grilled globe artichokes ($29-$36).  

However, we opted for a platter for two ($75) and, as an extra treat, a side plate of oysters from the Southern Glory farm at Stewart Island, served freshly opened  and still clinging to their shells ($7 per oyster).

While we waited for these to arrive, we were each served a complimentary amuse-bouche, comprising a cube of watermelon topped with a swirl of goat curd and a single mint leaf.

As we devoured these, a party of diners arrived by helicopter, but Pegasus Bay is not a pretentious eatery. Other diners included family groups, couples with children, overseas visitors and a party of motorcyclists.

The generous platter, accompanied by Rachel Scott ciabatta bread, was the perfect choice for an al fresco meal, offering a wonderful selection of flavours to share. Highlights were the wild game terrine, spicy pickled cherries, a black truffle frittata, lightly grilled scallops served with roasted cherry tomatoes and radish batons, crisp grissini, roasted beetroot with gorgonzola, and a mound of prosciutto and thinly sliced salami. 

Dessert was unnecessary but, in the interests of a thorough review, we ordered a mascarpone tart topped with grappa-infused raspberries and crumbled Amaretti biscuit ($18). This was served with a duo of white chocolate truffles and was a fitting finale.

One could ask for little more - except perhaps a pair of loungers on which to digest the delicious meal and enjoy the gorgeous setting just a little longer.

Pegasus Bay has been named Cuisine magazine's Winery Restaurant of the Year for the past two years and it is easy to understand why.

Where: Stockgrove Rd, between Amberley and Waipara, North Canterbury.

Hours: Tasting room, 10am-5pm daily; restaurant, noon-4pm daily. Bookings recommended.

Prices: Entrees and light dishes $19-$27; mains $29-$36; desserts $17-$18.

Wine: Extensive range of Pegasus Bay varieties and vintages.

Service: Friendly, attentive and knowledgeable.

Ambience: Relaxed and informal.

Amenities: Charming, with wine-related quotes on the toilet walls.