Tutto Bene

KATE PREECE

Buon appetito by Kate Preece

On a rainy winter's eve, dinner in a warm Italian restaurant sounded like a treat. We didn't expect so many others to share our idea, especially on a Tuesday night, but when we arrived at Merivale's Tutto Bene at 8pm, the place was humming. Fortunately, it wasn't our first visit, so we had known to book a table.  

With a taste for seafood and a developing appreciation of red wine, his first request was Gamberoni alla Griglia, barbecued king prawns with fresh herbs, garlic and chilli ($21.50) and a house red ($6.50), while the gourmet Italian bread ($11.50) tempted me. 

We could smell the prawns before they arrived. They were declared delicious and plentiful, and scoffed accordingly. However, what really set our taste buds alight was the bread. Homemade, the delightfully soft loaf was pre-sliced and laced with melted bocconcini, artichokes, sundried tomatoes and olives. It blew any other bread entrée out of the water. 

"Next time, I'm just going to order three of those," he said.  

After such a successful first course, we eagerly anticipated dishes three and four.  

The menu included veal, steak, seafood and chicken main courses, as well as a long list of pizzas and calzoni, but the pasta and risotto page had us transfixed. He chose the evening's special, ravioli filled with beef, spinach, ricotta and garlic in a white sauce ($24.90, grande), and I opted for the Risotto con Piselli e Zucca (peas and pumpkin) in the smaller of the two sizes offered ($18.90, medio).  

Made with arborio rice, the risotto had secured my vote with its long list of tasty ingredients. It arrived littered with spinach, sundried tomato, chunks of sweet potatoes and roast pumpkin, peas and garlic, in a white wine sauce, with parmigiano cheese and stringy mozzarella. The dish-size was generous, but nothing compared to the mammoth portion of ravioli placed before my companion.  

He made a valiant effort, savouring each flavoursome parcel, but in the end, he was beaten. Still, we couldn't leave without trying the tiramisu, a family favourite, so requested one to take away.  

To us, the ingredients used in our meals brought the dishes to life. However, in the restaurant's close confines, we couldn't help overhearing that our neighbouring table of two did not agree. When the waitress asked about their meals, they declared the seafood dishes "bland" and not as expected. To their credit, staff handled the complaint very well, diffusing the situation without becoming defensive, and offering generous solutions. 

Our table didn't warrant nearly as much attention, but a little bit more wouldn't have gone amiss. The waitress seemed almost uninterested in us, but we did find solace in other staff who were more personable.  

The speed of service couldn't be faulted. Within half an hour, we had ordered, received and devoured our entrées and were ready for our mains, which arrived less than 10 minutes later.  

The next day, Tutto Bene's Mama Cake ($13.50), described as a richer form of tiramisu, did not disappoint. Filled with mascarpone, zabaglione and Italian liqueur and accompanied by poached pear, berries and other fruit pieces, it was divine. 

The back of one waiter's shirt said "real Italians do it better". Regarding this slick operation, which pumps out delicious meals at affordable prices every night, we had to agree.

Where: 192 Papanui Rd (parking available at rear).

Hours: 7 days a week, from 5pm. Bookings recommended.

Prices: Options for all wallets. Pizzas and pasta start about $18.50.

Wine: Good mix of Italian and New Zealand wines by the glass and bottle, reasonably priced.

Service: Quietly efficient.

Ambience: Bustling, with a good atmosphere.

Amenities: Adequate.