Zone Restaurant & Bar
Tables - September 09
Kate Preece
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A little place in Elmwood with an air of fine dining.
In the zone
One Thursday night, when the usual dinner options looked tired and washing up seemed too strenuous, we threw caution to the wind and tried something new. Not feeling like a feeding frenzy in the central city, we skirted around Merivale's happening hot spots and headed to the Elmwood shopping area, where Zone Restaurant and Bar beckoned.
We had experienced it as Cognito Café and Bar, but on both occasions left with bad tastes in our mouths. Less than a year ago, nutritionist Nicola Fraher and John Collins took over the eatery and gave it a new life.
The pair took to the restaurant with hammer and tongs and the result is a fresh, clean look with funky décor. There's been a change of seating plan, with stools and leaners in the designated drinking zone, and built-in kwila booths outside.
For an intimate dinner for two, this place was perfect. We had the restaurant largely to ourselves, with not a raucous party in sight. However, we were told not to expect a similar ambience on a Wednesday or a Friday night, when the place is often fit to bursting.
Somehow, despite ample choice, I chose the worst seat in the house. My view of the toilet door and a cabinet topped with paper and a staff member's drink bottle was hardly romantic. Plus, I lost out on a view of the fire and its elaborately decorated chimney. Fortunately, the food was fast and I was soon distracted.
Top marks for presentation, as colourful dishes centred on large white plates arrived with delicate garnishes. Our entrées of smoked Akaroa salmon ($17) and duck-liver parfait ($14) looked impressive, especially the scoop of parfait in its house of toasted brioche. There was plenty of parfait to share, but the "well-smoked, very refreshing" salmon was quickly devoured.
Blue cod encrusted with herbs ($30) and pork belly ($29) came next. The fish fell to pieces at every fork stroke and the pork's hoisin sauce was so tasty our male eater made sure every drop was sopped up. "I could've dipped pretty much anything in that sauce and it would've tasted good." He even threatened to lick the plate.
Mains came with a selection of vegetables in a side dish, but with one between two, the man felt as though he had missed out. His feeling was intensified by the tastiness of the vegetables - cooked to perfection, with not a mushy pea in sight. Rarely would I be tempted to order an extra side of vegetables, but it could easily have happened here.
We finished our evening with chocolate mousse and cheesecake, another Speight's ($5.50) for him and a glass of The Ned savvie ($8.50) for me. While the cheesecake ($14) was a little disappointing, the mousse ($15), served in a brandy snap basket with black cherries and chocolate nut crunch, was delicious.
The hearty male diner downed the three courses with ease, and possibly had room for more. But there was plenty for a female appetite.
The restaurant is gathering momentum as its talented staff nudge it gently along. With well-respected chef Gary Miller heading the kitchen team, and a summer menu waiting in the wings, Zone is a place worth watching.
Where: 7 Normans Road, Strowan.
Hours: Winter: Mon-Tues closed, Wed-Fri 11am to late, Sat 10am to late, Sun 10am to 4pm.
Wine: Excellent labels. Per glass $8-$12, bottles $35-$50. Bubbles at $27-$130 per bottle.
Prices: Entrées $12-$18, mains $25-$33, desserts $12-$15.
Service: Friendly, attentive, flawless.
Ambience: Quiet, with the potential to be rowdy, depending on the night.
