Opposites attract

Kathryn Leah Payne is set to launch her new collection, Jackal and Hide, for autumn/winter 2010.

Kathryn Leah Payne is set to launch her new collection, Jackal and Hide, for autumn/winter 2010.

Kathryn Leah Payne is set to launch her new collection, Jackal and Hide, for autumn/winter 2010.

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SET TO IMPRESS: Kathryn Leah Payne.

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Christchurch fashion designer Kathryn Leah Payne is set to launch her debut womenswear collection, Jackal and Hide, for autumn/winter 2010, reports Amy Parsons-King. 

After receiving an Advanced Diploma in Fashion Technology and Design at Christchurch Polytechnic in 2000, Kathryn Payne created her own leather accessories and jewellery designs, selling them at Workshop and other selected boutiques.

But wanting to gain knowledge and experience with leading fashion brands, she decided to head for London with its wider possibilities.

There, she learnt from some of Britain's most reputable designers, working firstly as a garment technologist for the British label Caroline Charles whose celebrity customer list included Princess Diana, Ringo Starr and Mick Jagger, and ultimately became head production manager for British fashion house Bolongaro Trevor.

"I learnt so much working for these bigger companies. If I hadn't gone overseas I would never have made those contacts and never known how things were done on a global scale."

By 2008 Payne felt she had the necessary skills to establish her own label and later that year returned to Christchurch.

The inspiration behind Jackal and Hide is primarily the 1980s; however Payne has reinvented rather than recycled silhouettes to create a current look.

"My main inspiration is based around vintage ideas and there's quite a bit of the 1980s in there; the draped pockets, the pleating, little gathers and ruching. I go op-shopping all the time, and look at vintage patterns.

"I see details and aspects that I think, 'wow that would look great' and I reinterpret them my own way."

The collection is made up of 17 key pieces and includes corsets, a dress, pants, jackets, shrugs, leggings and sleeves. They have been created from lambskin leather, viscose, merino jersey, wool crepe, denim, possum fur and vintage silks.

Payne's first commercial collection focuses on a dark palette. She uses black, brown, mocha, coffee, old gold and steel to create a dramatic, sophisticated range.

"I quite like dark, almost tarnished colours. I don't like anything too flashy and even the zips I've used are antique, so they're not too bright."

The garments have clever detailing: feathery pleats, unexpected mixing of fabrics, hidden gussets, ruching, boning, notching, and leather that has been cut and twisted to give a three- dimensional look.

"I pay particular attention to detailing and I like to surprise people," she says.

A quirky touch in her collection has each piece named after the animal it is reminiscent of.

The stingray pants have billowy pockets that look like a stingray's fins. The fully ruched black "raven" dress was inspired by the dark, sleek bird. And the top, named after a butterfly, is delicately draped and gathered at the back.

Payne's full range will be available in Deval and NG, Christchurch and Palm Boutique, Nelson next month.

For more information go to www.kathrynleahpayne.com 

- © Fairfax NZ News