A French adventure

FLAVOURSOME: Cafe de la Gare at the old Rangiora railway station.

Relevant offers

Food

Clever combos The vegetarian lunchbox Cafe Chat: February 1 'ave an avocado The vegetarian: Herby lentil pancakes Cheese-stuffed courgette flowers Eating out: Meshino Here's to an ice-cold summer Cafe Chat: December 21 Taking tea with a Twining

Cafe de la Gare's owner, Nelly Bekritskaia was born in Russia, grew up in France and has lived in New Zealand with her Kiwi partner, Tony Clearwater, for five years.

The couple ran Cafe de Paris in Queenstown for two years, before moving to Leithfield Beach.

They saw the abandoned railway station in Blackett St, Rangiora, as an appealing place to start their new venture, Cafe de la Gare.

You won't find many authentic French dishes on the menu, but the French influence and deft touch of New Zealand-born chef Dominic Price is obvious in the flavours and the quality of the food.

The transformation of this run-down railway station to French cafe with crisp, white tablecloths, soft lighting and chansons d'amour quietly playing in the background is charming.

The wine list includes some French labels, but they are expensive.

Instead, we choose (by the glass) 2008 Whitestone Pinot Gris and 2007 Northern Creek Pinot Noir.

Our meal begins with a garlic baguette, a classic favourite done well.

Both our entree selections are exquisite. The Nelson scallops in velvet cream - a creamy, slightly peppery sauce - are scattered with baby spinach leaves and chervil, and melt in the mouth.

The baby rack of lamb with a pear and parmesan salad is full of flavour. The lamb is tender and the salad a lovely, simple complement.

For our main dishes, we select the roasted pork belly with cider glaze and rich red cabbage, and scotch fillet with green beans, sauteed potatoes and bernaise sauce.

Both dishes are extremely rich and neither is likely to be given the Heart Foundation tick any time soon, but they are a treat.

By using scotch fillet (also known as ribeye beef, instead of the more expensive but less flavoursome fillet steak) and pairing it with a light bernaise sauce, the chef has made a clever, delicious choice.

I wanted to order the apple tarte tatin for dessert, but it takes 45 minutes to prepare, so instead, I choose the creme brulee with tamarillo jam, while Nevin orders crepe flambe with spiced orange glaze. The brulee is served with a jug of fresh cream and finely chopped honey-roasted hazelnuts.

The crepe flambe? Brandy is poured over the crepes at the table and then spectacularly set alight.

Entry to Cafe de la Gare is from the back of the railway station, and while plans for a French garden are under way, there is still work to be done, including the installation of adequate lighting for evening diners. But this a minor grizzle. The overall quality of Cafe de la Gare makes it an exciting and most welcome addition to North Canterbury eateries.

Cafe de la Gare Railway Station Rangiora, Blackett St. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Late nights Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Phone 03 313 6018. Upside: Atmosphere and food. Downside: Still minor work to be done on the lighting.

- © Fairfax NZ News