Life aplenty in historic heart

MIKE YARDLEY

With Eastern Europe continuing to open up to the travel market, one of the brightest budding destinations is the pint-sized nation of Slovenia.

Freed from the communist and totalitarian bonds of the former Yugoslavia, Slovenia's independence was swiftly secured, whilst the Croats, Serbs and Bosnians battled it out.

What struck me most about Slovenia's tourist draw is the microcosmic nature of its abundant attractions.

Whether it's mountain-climbing, cave-climbing, tramping, skiing or water-sports, Slovenia is like a European snow-dome, showcasing a wealth of adventure-based activities close to each other.

If high adrenaline and the great outdoors is not big in your bucket list, I strongly recommend you at least take a lazy foray to the princess-pretty capital of Ljubljana.

Set below an enchanting hilltop castle, and straddling the banks of the emerald-green Ljubljanica River, Slovenia's capital city offers the short-stay visitor a raft of sights, culture and old-town fun.

Best of all, the small-town ambience resonates across the historic heart, and is a pleasure to experience on foot.

The best starting point is the spacious cobble-stoned main square in the Old Town, Presernov Trg. Taking pride of place is the Preseren monument, erected in 1905 in honour of Slovenia's great poet, France Preseren.

Motifs from his poems are sculpted on to the plinth.

To the south of the monument is the fabulously ornate Triple Bridge, which is the main pedestrian crossing, spanning the Ljubljanica River.

Towering across the square is Slovenia's most colourful church, the 17th-century Italianate Franciscan Church of the Annunciation. The pastel-coloured church, set against the stone of the Triple Bridge, is exceptionally photogenic.

Its main altar was designed by the acclaimed Italian sculptor, Francesco Robba. Yet his most famous contribution to Slovenian public life is a short walk away at the adjoining square, Mestni Trg. Standing in front of the town hall is the Robba Fountain; not dissimilar to Bernini's legendary masterpiece in Rome's Piazza Navona.

The Robba Fountain is a floridly sculpted artwork, depicting three titans with their gushing urns, representing the three rivers of the region. It is a fantastical creation, and well worth admiring up close.

Ljubljana's town hall was rebuilt in 1718, and is an architectural treasure-trove, featuring Gothic courtyards and renaissance arcades. The historic building is crowned with a golden dragon, which is the symbol of the city.

Also in the area is the Cathedral of St Nicholas, which is a gorgeous twin-towered structure built 300 years ago.

Be sure to have a peek inside, because the interior is a riot of pink marble, white stucco and gilt, with baroque frescoes and magnificent carved choir stalls. Two monstrous bronze doors were installed in 1996, to celebrate the papal visit by the late Pope John Paul II.

Ljubljana's most popular tourist site is Castle Hill, which is easily reached on foot, or by taking a ride on the recently installed funicular. The hill has had fortifications since Celtic times, although the existing castle complex dates back to the 16th century.

Since then it has served as a royal residence, state prison and military barracks. Nowadays it is a public museum, concert venue and supreme vantage point to lap up the city panorama. It is also the most popular place in Slovenia to tie the knot.

That may not be on your agenda, but be sure to take the viewing tower tour, which starts from the castle courtyard. The tour includes access to the Virtual Museum, which features a short three-dimensional video exhibition of Ljubljana's history. The climb up to the tower requires navigating a 95-stepped wrought-iron staircase, and then a short stroll along the ramparts, which climaxes with magical views across the river and the old town. Attached to the viewing tower is the cute-as-a-button Chapel of St George, which is covered in exquisite frescoes.

If you are an architecture aficionado, be sure to traverse the 650-metre thoroughfare, Miklosiceva Cesta, which connects the old town with main train station.

The narrow street features the most diverse collection of period buildings, but it's the art nouveau properties which positively burst with personality.

Ljubljana's finest hotel, and its most historic, the Grand Union, is located here. It is one of the most-affordable luxury hotels in Europe.

President Clinton stayed here a few years ago, and the highly personable hotel staff treat all of their guests like kings.

Spacious rooms, a fabulous pool and spa complex, free internet access and a birds-eye views across the old town all help make this hotel a highly recommended option (www.gh-union.si)

Travelling to and from Slovenia by train is definitely the easiest and most convenient way, with regular connections to Zagreb, Salzburg, Munich and Venice.

In fact, if you want to take a quick dip into Slovenia from Venice, it's just a four-hour diversion down the train tracks.

For rail passes and reservation information, visit railplus.co.nz.

- © Fairfax NZ News