Northern exposure

BY GERTRUD WAGNER

A wee hiccup at the end of my stay in Kerikeri serves to highlight the amazing hospitality to be found in this part of Northland.

On the morning I'm due to fly out I've managed to lock the car keys in the boot of my hire car.

"Just eat your breakfast or it'll get cold, I'll sort it out," says Geoff, one of my hosts at Lodge 88.

So I stay put, dip my croissant in hot chocolate, tuck into fresh fruit and enjoy home-made pluot (plum and apricot) yoghurt, while Geoff coordinates the "rescue plan" – driving towards Paihia while the owner of the car rental operation drives the other way, allowing them to meet halfway. Everything gets sorted in good time and, while I didn't leave the dining room table, I certainly leave Kerikeri with a lasting impression.

The Bay of Island's commercial centre may have no hotels, but if the car key rescue mission is an indicator of the standard of personal service, bed and breakfasts are a great alternative. Wendy, my host at another B&B, tells me why she goes that extra mile. "I love people, so it's not hard," she says.

And if Treghan Cottage's visitor's book is anything to go by, guests love her too. My room here is perfect. It's all about the details, among other luxuries: a private DVD collection, sunscreen in the bathroom, the most comfortable bed and some home-made chocolate brownies – for emergencies, obviously.

With my tastebuds tickled, I'm off to explore. My meal in the courtyard at Ake Ake vineyard is perfect, creamy risotto and the accompanying chambourcin wine is a fine match. Ake Ake vineyard has had great success with chambourcin, a French-American hybrid well suited to Kerikeri's temperatures and geography.

Marsden Estate, which also has award-winning chambourcin, is just a stone's throw from the airport should you feel parched on arrival.

Blessed with this warm climate, Kerikeri is a horticulturist's dream, especially for Robin Booth. It's been a 16-year labour of love for Robin at Wharepuke Subtropical Garden, just past the town centre. This two- hectare garden of regional significance houses an eclectic collection of rare and exotic plants pushing the boundaries of Kerikeri temperatures. I get amongst it, communing with nature, all senses firing. I'm touching and smelling the magnificent foliage, but stop short of eating, to leave space for some great cuisine at the cafe/restaurant on site. I may be in New Zealand, but eating outside amid lush, "jungle" flora transports me to another place, as does chef Colin Ashton's sublime panna cotta dessert.

Microherbs, rhubarb, lettuce and rocket are all grown on site and, with Kerikeri being the fruit bowl of the north, he has no shortage sourcing the freshest produce. And it's not long before my own car back seat is covered in mandarins, oranges, kiwi fruit and avocado.

But this health kick of sorts comes undone when I get back on Kerikeri Rd. Home-made fudge at Get Fudged beg to be sampled. And when a sign reads "Makana Confectioners – viewing – tasting – tempting!" my elbow is easily twisted. I feel like Charlie in the Chocolate Factory witnessing delectable sweeties being made before my very eyes, but before I break into the "oompa loompa" tune or I scoff my sixth piece of macadamia brittle, for the sake of my waistline, I head for the exit.

What Nelson is to the artistic community of the south, Kerikeri is a similar creative hub for the north. Wharepuke has a gallery and studio where you can try non-toxic chemical printmaking. Monika Welch at the Hot Ginger Gallery showcases exhibitors' talents in a cute wee shed in a private garden. Ceramic necklaces and clothes with her signature figurative prints are for sale. But the piece de la resistance has to be Scopes. Nothing quite prepares you for 265 Waipapa Rd. The long driveway empties out to a rather ordinary looking shed. A wandering peacock showcases his beautiful plumage. "The colours of the peacock absolutely grace the kaleidoscope," says Robyn, who, with the inventive Andrew, maintains this gem of an attraction. She points towards a kaleidoscope focused on a merry-go-round of flowers floating on water in a huge urn. To the naked eye, pretty, but viewed through the kaleidoscope – pretty awesome! And there's more. Inside, a dripping "bubble" seen through a kaleidoscope is mesmerising, as is a collection of small objects set on an audio mini-speaker, being moved by whatever musical track is playing.

The rhythmic patterned formations rock. I leave with the biggest smile on my face.

Gertrud Wagner was hosted by Destination Northland

AT A GLANCE

Kerikeri is widely known for its successful horticulture, niche food products, fabulous chocolates, boutique vineyards, art galleries, cafes and crafts.

Don't miss award winning winery Marsden Estate, www.marsdenestate.co.nz, or Ake Ake vineyard www.akeakevineyard.co.nz.

Experience European and Thai inspired cuisine at Wharepuke Food. www.foodatwharepuke.co.nz

Try Bay of Islands Farmer's Market on Sunday mornings. www.boifm.org.nz

For sugary treats head to Get Fudged or Makana Confections.

See rare and uncommon plants at the Subtropical garden at Wharepuke. www.subtropicalgarden.co.nz

Find a treasure at Hot Ginger Gallery. 09 4077255.

Head to Scopes for the ultimate kaleidoscope experience. www.kaleidoscopes.co.nz

ESSENTIALS

Kerikeri is a 40-minute plane ride or a three-and-a-half hour drive north of Auckland.

Go Birdz car hire has an office at Kerikeri airport, www.gobirdz.co.nz Treghan Cottage is less than 2kms from Kerikeri, www.treghancottage.co.nz

88 Lodge features a secluded solar heated swimming pool, www.88lodge.co.nz

Wharepuke Subtropical Accommodation consists of five cottages nestled in the gardens, (09) 4078933.

- © Fairfax NZ News