Simply the rest in Sandspit

BY TODD MURRAY

Progress is a wonderful thing.

As our packed station wagon speeds through the new Puhoi tunnel, I thank the wonders of the 21st century – including feats of modern engineering – that deliver us to our destination of Sandspit with time to spare.

Our journey from Auckland to the northern town takes less than an hour and we arrive with plenty of time to stroll down the wharf and soak up the morning sun before boarding the ferry to Kawau Island.

Progress has its place, but on this break more simple pleasures were on offer.

Sandspit is a coastal settlement seven kilometres from Warkworth on the Mahurangi Peninsula. Snells Beach is to the south and the popular bohemian village of Matakana is to the north.

The trip aboard our Reubens Cruises' Kawau Kat takes just over half an hour. It leaves quite an impression on two-year-old Junior, who for the rest of our stay keeps pointing to the ocean repeating the phrase "berry boat" with great gusto.

Kawau Island itself is a tranquil haven. Mansion House is there – the stately residence completed in 1872 and originally owned by New Zealand's first governor, Sir George Grey – so too are wekas, tui, wood pigeon, wallabies and a pair of pushy peacocks. The colourful show-offs spend most of their time strutting around the palm-dotted grounds, staunchly defending the cafe entrance opposite the mansion.

After a leisurely 25-minute stroll, we reach the lookout where we stop for lunch and take in the spectacular views over Dispute Cove to the copper mine ruins below. A particularly curious weka joins us for lunch and gets its fair share of a ham and cheese sandwich.

The rest of the Kawau experience is spent lying in the grass by the pond listening for frogs and spotting dragonflies. After the initial rush to make our sailing time, the few hours spent on Kawau are just the tonic.

Once back on the mainland, it's straight to Sandspit Holiday Park.

The camp is in a prime position next to the wharf and nestled on the edge of the estuary. Accommodation ranges from campsites and motor homes to standard, kitchen and self-contained cabins.

Owners Jared and Zena Morrison have run the camp for six years and Jared's family did the same for 12 years before that. Jared tells the story of his folks and another couple bidding to buy the land in the early 1990s. One bidder wanted to develop the land, the other – Jared's parents – wanted to keep the status quo. Old-time values won out over shiny new condos and today the holiday park still has a "blast from the past" vibe. The grounds are peppered with turn-of-the-century buildings – great for the kids to explore – and on entering the camp office I am greeted by a handful of kids clutching silver coins as they decide which sweets to buy from the Victorian-style lolly jars. The camp also has peddle-boats and kayaks for campers to use free of charge, as well as a nine-hole golf course within the grounds.

Our self-contained two-bedroom cabin has the perfect view of the wharf and our first meal is spent on the deck watching the waves gently lap on the shore, sipping wine as the night closes in.

Once again, we have uninvited feathered guests at our dinner table. Ducks jostle for our tasty morsels, a few even clamber up on deck for a closer look. Junior is having a great time watching the fun; we're not doing so bad either.

The next day is overcast so we spend the morning exploring the camp, catching up with our duck friends and hanging out at a playground across the road.

The afternoon is spent searching for crabs along the shoreline, building sandcastles and simply enjoying digging our toes into the sand. Later we visit the four donkeys that live on the hill overlooking the camp. Donkey dad Hercules, mum Xena and sons Zeus and Zac are super friendly and race up to the fence to get a pat on the head. The apples we brought with us may also have something to do with it.

That night we spend another relaxing evening feeding ducks and gazing across the peaceful inlet waiting for the stars to appear.

The next day we pack up and drive 10 minutes down the road to the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail, a unique environment where art and nature meet.

Richard and Christine Didsbury have created a type of art gallery set among the farmland and native bush of the Brick Bay Farm. Over 40 sculptures – most of which are for sale – dot the landscape. Metallic geometric shapes reflect the surrounding kanuka trees, giant windmills rise up from a farm hillside and corrugated forms float on a picture-perfect lake like wood shavings on the workshop floor.

The 2km walk is the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday. Afterwards you can relax in the ultra-modern restaurant overlooking the lake while sipping on a glass of Brick Bay wine discussing your walk of art.

On the drive home I realise any worries have drifted away on a salty breeze. As we approach the Puhoi tunnel we turn off and take the long way round to Orewa. We stop for an ice cream just like we did all those years ago.

It may take us longer to get home but, after a few days of sampling simple pleasures, sometimes the slow way is the perfect speed.

AT A GLANCE

Sandspit is on the Mahurangi Peninsula, close to Warkworth and with Snells Beach and Algies Bay to the south. To the east is Scotts Landing and Mahurangi Heads. Matakana village is 10 minutes from Sandspit. The Matakana village farmers' market is world famous for its locally grown produce and is a food lovers' paradise. It is open Saturday from 9am until 1pm and Wednesday from 3pm to 7pm. Tawharanui regional park is 15 minutes from Sandspit. New Zealand's first integrated open sanctuary is a 588-hectare park where native plants and animals including kiwi can live and breed successfully without the threat of predators.

ESSENTIALS

Sandspit is a 55-minute drive north of Auckland in the Rodney district. Sandspit Holiday Park has a 4-star Qualmark rating. A range of accommodation is available, from campsites to self-contained cabins ranging $12-$120 per night. Check out www.sandspitholidaypark.co.nz for more information. Reubens Cruises offer return ferry services to Kawau Island from Sandspit wharf. Go to www.reubens.co.nz for times. Brick Bay Sculpture Trail is open daily from 10am-5pm, adults $10, students $8 and children under five free. Go to www.brickbaysculpture.co.nz

Todd stayed courtesy of Sandspit Holiday Park.

- © Fairfax NZ News