Why you should still go to Fiji

Fiji may have its problems, but it's still one of the world's best places for a holiday, writes Miles Godfrey.

Fiji may be isolated, ostracised and ridiculed on the international stage.

But many Western tourists don't seem bothered by the lack of democracy, the burgeoning military junta or levels of poverty, as long as they can enjoy a margarita on the beach.

After all, you don't go on holiday to think about politics.

Definitely go to Fiji - it is one of the most interesting, friendly places in the world.

But if you do one thing, take a second to understand what has happened to this nation over the last three years.

And then get on with having the time of your life.

It was in December 2006 that army chief Frank Bainimarama stormed parliament and overthrew the democratically elected Fijian government.

In 2009 alone, his grip on the country tightened, Bainimarama has scrapped Fiji's constitution in favour of rule by military junta, delayed elections, sacked elected ministers, introduced heavy media censorship and ousted Australian and New Zealand diplomats.

The Commonwealth reacted by suspending Fiji, cutting it off from much-needed funding and barring it from participation in the 2010 Commonwealth Games - no small deal for a nation that really loves its rugby union.

The nation now remains in political limbo as the world waits, possibly in vain, for democracy to be reinstated.

Despite all of this the Fijian tourism market has remained remarkably resilient, mainly because none of it affects holiday-makers one iota.

Australian tourists still make up around a quarter of all visitors.

Latest official Tourism Fiji figures show a 27 per cent decrease in Australian visitors in the first quarter of 2009 - when Fijian political tensions and the global financial crisis peaked.

But this has been offset by big increases in the year's latter half, including record arrivals in September.

Airlines, including V Australia and Jetstar, are opening new daily services to Nadi.

And resorts continue to pour money into upgrading facilities.

Any visitor bothering to travel outside the plentiful hotel complexes which dot the island will see the poverty which still blights ordinary Fijians.

Tin shacks, third-world living conditions and low wages remain common.

Natural disasters such as the cyclone which battered the island in mid-December pose their own regular problems, causing flooding and structural damage.

On the west side of Viti Levu near Denarau, there is an orphanage full of children ranging from babies to teenagers, mostly abandoned by their parents.

It is one of dozens of orphanages across the islands, according to staff at the nearby Sofitel who are heavily involved in helping out.

They regularly donate everyday items such as weighing scales or cooking tools.

You or I may think such things trivial but they are considered luxuries within the orphanage.

In a sign of the political difficulties commonplace in Fiji, Sofitel does not donate cash to the children because it simply "disappears", staff say.

In a further problem, the US Central Intelligence Agency also accuses Fiji of being a source of child sex trafficking, saying the government has taken no action to remedy the situation.

It would be entirely unfair to portray the islands as a no-go zone because that is simply not the case.

Fiji remains beautiful, full of some of the most friendly people and stunning scenery you could hope to encounter.

The year-round sun, great diving and sheer ease of a four-hour flight from Australia's east is a major lure.

Aside from the two main islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, there is also ample opportunity to get away from the tourist traps by travelling to any of the hundreds of outlying resorts.

Alternatively a trip to the country's interior is highly recommended.

Sigatoka River Safari runs trips to villages around the southwest of Viti Levu to meet communities still living in what you might call traditional conditions.

One of these villages, Mavua, overlooks the meandering Sigatoka and is made up of around three dozen basic wooden and stone buildings, one community hall and a church.

It is quite confronting to see the sheer basic level of living standards.

But at the same time the smiles from the numerous children are reassuring and very heart warming.

After an hour's tour visitors are invited into the community hall to take part in a "traditional" kava ceremony.

For the uninitiated, kava is the drink, made from the root of piper methysticum plant, designed to induce mild intoxication.

Described by some as tasting like "dirty socks" or an "unwashed rugby jersey", in my case it was relatively tasteless and just made my mouth a bit numb. A mild dose perhaps.

The ceremony is followed by lunch, singing and dancing before a jet boat ride back from the village.

Senior tourism workers admit the quality and variety of food in Fiji has long been a problem.

Local farmers have struggled to use the land properly for years, often failing to rotate crops or use modern growing techniques, they say.

There are moves to remedy this, with the introduction of farming schools and within the larger resorts, the employment of quality overseas chefs.

And with Fiji's large Indo-Fijian population you can expect a strong taste of the subcontinent.

One of the things likely to continue to make Fiji a popular destination for Australians is the availability of relatively cheap airfares.

V Australia launched its inaugural flight to Nadi on December 18 while budget carrier Jetstar is launching its own Nadi route in April.

Sofitel general manager Amanda Silk admits there are challenges ahead for the Fijian market, not least from other Pacific islands.

"Affordable airfares to competing long and short haul destinations, plus a new push for domestic travel in Australia in 2009 and into 2010 has provided challenges," she says.

"But at the same time, Fiji has certainly risen to this challenge and remains a firm favourite for Aussies and Kiwis."

The writer was a guest of V Australia and Sofitel.

- AAP