Relax on the Insular Peninsular

BY DIANA PLATER

It's known affectionately by locals as Palmy.

Palm Beach – Sydney's most northern beach – is a place you can't help but fall in love with because of its spectacular scenery and laidback feel.

After an hour's drive from the CBD you wind your way around the final bit of road past the Pittwater side coming out at the peninsular, which is fringed on the other side by the Pacific Ocean, where orange sand runs down to surf.

The area is favoured by filmmakers and artists – and with its neighbouring beach suburbs of Whale Beach, Avalon and Mona Vale is also known as the Insular Peninsular.

The tongue-in-cheek nickname alludes to the fact that many of the locals see no need to go anywhere else. Their kids are born, raised and schooled here but know little about life further south.

Soapie fans would know it as Summer Bay with exteriors for Home and Away shot around here.

Palm Beach was a place we used to head to for summer holidays – spending hours in the rock pool at its southern end, building sandcastles on the beach or surfing its gentle waves.

Facing the surf behind a line of cabbage tree palms is the historic Surf Club which includes the Pacific and Cabbage Tree Clubs where members help themselves to gin and tonics and cook barbecues after a morning swim.

Today you can still take ferry rides across to the Basin, Mackeral and other Pittwater communities which lie below the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. Most can only be reached by boat or a long walk down through the park.

The walk up to the historic Barrenjoey Lighthouse, which towers over Barrenjoey – the headland jutting out to the sea at the end of the isthmus of sandhills, is invigorating. It offers incredible views and, if you go off the beaten path, lots of caves to explore.

The headland is at the entrance to Broken Bay, into which the Hawkesbury River runs. So in the 19th century it was a backdoor for smugglers and in 1843 a customs station was built to keep an eye on them.

The lighthouse built of local sandstone was completed in 1881.

In 1932 it was converted to automatic operation.

For thousands of years the Guringai people lived here, fishing and hunting. Their cave art can be found in the national park.

In 1788 the region was explored by sea by Governor Arthur Phillip who commented that it was the finest piece of water he'd ever seen.

The park in the area was named after him in the 1950s.

Barrenjoey Headland Aquatic Reserve includes the entire rocky platform around Barrenjoey Head and the headland is also part of the national park.

Next to the lighthouse is a small cottage where the lighthouse keeper lived.

On the Pittwater side of the headland are small fishing huts – now a lot more glamorous looking than when I was a kid.

Once you've clambered back down from the lighthouse, you can stop for a coffee at Dunes Kiosk in Governor Phillip Park or have a meal at Dunes restaurant. They're in the old Rangers Cottage, where the ranger and his wife who looked after the camping grounds during the 60s and 70s lived.

In 1988 the owner and executive chef of Dunes, Stefan Leibenatus, saw the building and thought it would make a great restaurant.

In 2001 he and his wife Cathie won the tender and opened the restaurant and kiosk in 2006.

It sits among 1,200 square metres of garden between the Pacific Ocean and Pittwater. The original building has been renovated using natural wood, rattan and wooden seating and decor combining sandstone and marble.

On Thursdays local musician, piano player and music teacher Roc Koren plays jazz with different instrumentalists and vocalists each week, drawn from the huge amount of local talent.

The music goes from around 6pm till 9pm.

THINGS TO DO AROUND THE INSULAR PENINSULAR

Walk to the Barrenjoey Lighthouse, then back down to Governor Phillip Park for a picnic.

The National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the Barrenjoey Lighthouse and Head Keeper's Cottage on weekends, public holidays and school holidays. Booking are essential.

Take the 20-minute ferry trip around to The Basin which has two white sandy beaches and a steep walking track leading to Aboriginal engravings in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park.

Line fishing and spearfishing (subject to normal restrictions)are permitted in the Barrenjoey aquatic reserve. Collection of rock lobster, sea lettuce and baitweed is also allowed. But there are other restrictions so you need a fishing licence.

Sail or walk to one of Sydney's most secluded and secret beaches – Resolute Beach. It can be accessed by boat or by walking the 10km track through Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park.

Walk the sevenkm Elvina Track, passing through rainforest to the top of a waterfall that has a natural swimming pool to take a dip in.

Visit the stylish seaside village of Avalon and its boutique shops.

Learn to sail on Pittwater.

Stop in for a drink at the Newport Arms Hotel.

Have a coffee at Dunes Kiosk or dinner at the restaurant: 1193 Barrenjoey Road (inside Governor Phillip Park), Palm Beach.

* The writer was a guest of Dunes Restaurant.

- AAP