Odd spots in the heart of Seoul

CITY OF SURPRISES: There's a bazaar, and in parts of Seoul there's also the bizarre, such as a cafe for dogs.

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Seoul's concrete sprawl offers surprises at every turn. Dynastic palaces with verdant gardens and ancient streets are often just two quick turns out from the modern central business district, and can be found in every guidebook. But you can also find the weird, the wacky, the seedy or the spectacular - sights largely hidden to the casual tourist.

BAUHAUS DOG CAFE

Sangsu Station

I know what you're thinking, and you're wrong. Here, dogs are strictly off the menu. At this third- floor cafe, you're greeted by a parade of pooches. Skidding over tables and napping on windowsills, man's best friend has free rein in this small space. Dogs come here for a holiday, and Seoulites visit to get a dose of puppy love. Coffee is expensive even by Seoul standards at 6000 won ($12), but if you're a dog lover it's just about worth it. Keep a close eye on your latte - these pups take no prisoners where abandoned food or drink is concerned.

BATTING CAGES

Koreans love baseball, and you can find batting cages dotted all around the city. Feed coins into a box and watch the balls fly towards your face at high speed. It's 500W ($1) for about 10 balls. Batting cages are popular with young men, egging each other on in between a few beers. It may take a few swings but there's nothing like that satisfying crack when bat meets ball and your spectators murmur their approval. Check out the cage on Indsadong gil, Seoul's best-known arts and crafts street.

DVD BANGS

Commonly used as a meeting place for courting couples, DVD bangs (rooms) afford you your own private cinema. With luxurious couches, huge screens and surround sound, they're a great place to relax and have a few drinks while taking in a recent release. Viewing material ranges from Disney to, well, dirty. Expect to pay anywhere from W12000 for a showing. Look for the large neon signs saying DVD, usually located on the second or third floors in busy areas.

JIMJIL BANGS (Sauna)

Seoul's saunas are found underground. As well as steam rooms, there are pools ranging from icy to piping hot. Facilities range from small and intimate to mammoth complexes with gyms, sleeping areas and cinemas. This is where Seoulites go to relax and socialise. Forget modesty - you must be naked before you put so much as a toe in the water. Sexes are strictly segregated. Entry is around W7000, and the more budget traveller will be happy to know that this usually buys a dorm bed for the night.

GALBI (Korean barbecue)

Galbi restaurants are ubiquitous in Seoul. Diners sit on the floor around a low table, fry meat on a hot grill in the middle of the table and wrap it in lettuce leaves. Feast on all manner of complimentary side dishes, including the ever- present spicy cabbage, kimchi. Wash it all down with soju, the local firewater.

LOVE HOTELS

When it's time to hit the hay, what better sleeping arrangement can you imagine than a low-lit room with a round bed, a mirror on the ceiling and a tray proffering a starter kit for lights-out activities? Ranging from the seedy to the sophisticated, love hotels are found all over the city, but are especially concentrated in Jongno 3 ga. Their features vary, but you are guaranteed a large video collection, interesting vending machines and discreet service.

These rooms can be rented by the hour, so it might take some negotiating to stay for more than one night. Prices start at W30,000 a night.