A guilt-free Samoan holiday

The message is Samoa is open for business.

Post-tsunami, the Pacific paradise has a damaged southern coastline, battered bank account and a fragile collective spirit but the people are powering on and they want Australians back on their sunny shores.

The problem is many wannabe tourists could be deterred by the thought of holidaying in a place struck by tragedy.

The country's tourism minister, Misa Telefoni, really hopes that's not the case. He says come on over, and stresses you don't have to be a "volunteerist", or volunteer tourist, to make a difference.

"I'd love to think people want to help and they can do that just by coming here, relaxing on our many unspoilt beaches and enjoying the amazing Samoan hospitality," Telefoni says.

Such a break, he says, will help prevent the so-called second tsunami – the devastation of the Samoan economy.

For those tempted, here is the ultimate guide on how to have a guilt-free Samoan holiday:

* Visit Savai'i

This large and mountainous isle is just an hour away by ferry from the mainland, Upolu, but was barely touched by the September 29 waves. It has the same white sand charms of Upolu but is far quieter and less developed. Highlights include the powerful Alofaaga blowholes, swimming with turtles and relaxing on pretty Manase Beach.

There's plenty of accommodation from great value basic beachfront "fales" to luxury villas with all the mod-cons.

* Stay in Apia

The country's budding capital, home to 35,000 people, is still as lively and thriving as ever. The main street is a hub-bub of stalls, markets, local music and even a couple of Sydney-style cafes.

Accommodation options are a-plenty but at the top end you can't go wrong with the classic Aggie Grey's Hotel, frequented by the rich and famous since 1933.

* Cruise Upolu's beautiful northern coast

The top side of tsunami-hit Upolu is as beautiful as ever, and you'll see it moments after stepping off the plane. Novelist James Michener once called the 20-minute drive from the airport into Apia the "most beautiful drive in the South Pacific". Keep driving through the capital along to the east. The road hugs the shore almost continually and there are many tempting spots to swim, pick coconuts or buy locally-made handicrafts.

* Stay at Sa'Moana Resort

While most of Upolu's southern coast was devastated by the September 29 waves, there was one established resort that escaped damaged. Aussie-run Sa'Moana is small, laid-back and perfectly positioned to take in the sunset from the cocktail deck. Originally pitched as a surf resort, it has become a popular spot for honeymoons, weddings and romantic escapes.

* Go natural

Most of the Upolu's natural highlights were undamaged by the waves. Some of the best include the powerful Sopoaga Waterfall, on the south-eastern coast, Papase'ea Sliding Rock, a natural rock waterchute just 5km from Apia, and Piula Cave Pool, a stunning oval-shaped natural pool next to the ocean on the east coast.

There are also several great surfing spots, including Solosolo and Salamumu, and Lake Lanoto'o, a crater lake about 20km from Apia that is teeming with goldfish. It's difficult to reach but well worth the effort.

* Don't miss Stevenson's

The inland home of the country's most famous literary import, Robert Louis Stevenson, of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Treasure Island fame, is a cultural highlight. The Scotsman's beautiful colonial mansion has been transformed into a museum. Take a fascinating walk through its many rooms, not missing the library where he penned 14 tomes in just four years more than a century ago. Even those not interested in literature will enjoy the 30-minute walk up to his grave for amazing views of Apia.

IF YOU GO:

For more information on travel in Samoa visit: www.samoa.travel/.

*The writer was a guest of the Samoan Tourism Authority.

- AAP