Quiet side of Rio de Janeiro

BY STEVE MCKENNA

Whether you're sunning yourself next to the beautiful people on Ipanema Beach, admiring the spine-tingling views from Sugarloaf Mountain or dancing samba in the ocean of colour that is the Rio Carnival, it's hard to deny that Rio de Janeiro deserves its moniker, the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City).

Unbeknown to many tourists, however, Brazil's most exciting metropolis is also the capital of Rio de Janeiro state, a region dotted with quaint colonial towns, classy beach resorts and gorgeous tropical islands.

When the big, bustling city gets too much, look no further than these laid-back gems, which are all within easy reach of the city and are sure to further your appreciation of this stunning part of the world.

Buzios

Until the mid-1960s, Buzios was just a simple fishing village on a peninsula jutting into the Atlantic Ocean. Then Brigitte Bardot breezed into town with her Brazilian boyfriend and things were never the same.

The French actress told her friends about Buzios, who told their friends, and it's now Brazil's most glamorous seaside resort, a kind of Latin American Saint Tropez.

Affluent Cariocas (Rio city folk) have second homes here and flood in for weekends and public holidays, filling many of the peninsula's 20-plus beaches, up-market seafood restaurants and trendy clubs such as Pacha and Privilege.

When I arrive midweek, however, it's gloriously quiet. Buzio's main cobbled thoroughfare - the Rua das Pedras (Stone Street) - is packed with chic fashion boutiques and establishments where Bardot is, seemingly, everywhere.

She appears on paintings and in photographs decorating restaurant walls, on colourful caricatures etched into doorways, at Buzios' only cinema (Gran Cine Bardot) and even in the form of a bronze statue that adorns a waterfront promenade named after her.

The walkway leads to the charming old village of Praia dos Ossos (Bones), which is sprinkled with cute little cottages, humble pousadas (guesthouses) and family-run shops and diners.

It's close to the peaceful, secluded Azeda and Azedinha coves, where I spend the best part of two days snorkelling in the calm, warm, crystal clear waters, slouching in a deck-chair, reading books and drinking mango juice freshly squeezed by cheerful vendors trading out of old fishing boats. It's a world away from the often-frantic vibe of Copacabana.

Paraty

One of the most enchanting of all the old Portuguese colonial towns in Brazil, Paraty has been dubbed "a virtual museum in a tropical paradise" because of its blend of natural and architectural beauty.

Its grid of rough, cobblestone streets is lined with stark, white stone buildings decorated with brightly hued doors and window shutters. It's sandwiched between a backdrop of misty rainforest-encrusted mountains and sparkling seas graced with little yachts and schooners named after Pele and other famous Brazilian footballers.

You can hop on one of these boats, which will take you for a tour around the beautiful little islands nearby, but I prefer exploring the gorgeous town itself.

A small Indian settlement until the late 17th century, Paraty quickly grew in importance after the Bandeirantes, the Portuguese version of the Spanish conquistadors, stumbled across enormous gold deposits in the mountains of inland Brazil.

They needed somewhere from which to launch the booty back to Lisbon and Paraty, with its wide, curving harbour, fitted the bill.

It wasn't long before the rich began to construct lavish buildings and churches here and, four centuries on, Paraty still evokes something of a bygone feel - despite its smattering of souvenir shops, art galleries and cosmopolitan eateries.

If you visit, don't wear high heels and do think twice about hiring a bicycle to get around town. The rough and ready cobbled streets are challenging, to say the least.

Ilha Grande

With no ATMs or cars, Ilha Grande (the Big Island) is the perfect place to get away from it all - although you don't have to endure Robinson Crusoe-like living conditions to enjoy it.

The main port, Abraao, backs on to a village with all the necessities - hotels, hostels, restaurants, cafes and tour agencies. But away from there I found numerous blissfully peaceful and photogenic spots.

Ilha Grande offers plenty of fabulous beaches, plus enough adventures to satisfy your inner wanderlust.

A network of trails hugs both the coastline and delves into the mountainous interior, matted with lush Atlantic rainforest. Hiding in the undergrowth are hummingbirds, monkeys, toucans and sloths - as well as waterfalls and mangroves.

I enjoyed a three-hour trek to the spectacularly desolate Lopes Mendes beach, a long arching curve of sand that squeaked as I walked on it and where I waded into the sea to ride warm, gentle waves back to shore.

Some of the island's treats are only reachable by boat, including a couple of lagoons blessed with vivid green and blue tones.

Despite its beauty, Ilha Grande has a dark history. It was used as a penal colony for much of the 20th century and in the distant past it was a slave trafficking centre and pirate hub.

Myriad myths and legends are attached to the island, the most famous of which concerns a shipwrecked pirate named Jorge Grego.

Though there are several variations to the story, the most popular states that in a jealous rage, he killed his daughter and her lover and spent the rest of his life solemnly roaming Ilha Grande before burying his treasure.

Some intrepid visitors still hunt for the loot. Most, like me, are just happy to lap up the scenery and the serenity.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

Hiring a car is the best way to see the destinations but you can use public transport. Viacao 1001 (www.autoviacao1001.com.br) runs seven buses a day from Rio to Buzios; Costa Verde buses (costaverdetransportes.com.br) travels from Rio to Paraty nine times daily.

To reach Ilha Grande, from Rio or Paraty, take one of the regular Costa Verde buses to Angra dos Reis, then connect with a ferry, 3.30pm on weekdays, 1.30pm on weekends. Most hotels and hostels in Rio can arrange transfers to all destinations.

WHERE TO STAY

In Buzios, doubles at the Pousada Afrika start at US$75 (NZ$106) a night, see afrika.com.br.

In Paraty, Pousada Acquarela has rooms from $US45. See pousadaacquarela.com.br.

On Ilha Grande, you can get a double for 288 Real ($175) at Sagu Mini Resort, see saguresort.com.

FURTHER INFORMATION

See www.buziosonline.com.br, paraty.com.br, ilhagrande.com.ar.

This year's carnival is from February 12-17.

- © Fairfax NZ News