Aphrodite's beguiling Cyprus

BY DAVID BATELY

Flying into Larnaca from Dubai I view an interesting landscape with what looks like a medium-sized city on the edge of a great blue lake. It is, of course, the Mediterranean Sea, but so calm that it resembles a lake.

Larnaca Airport is brand new and not quite finished. Clean and spacious, it offers no obstacles. Immigration is a cinch. The officials are welcoming and pleased to see a New Zealander arriving for a holiday. I'm waved through customs and wished well.

On a New Zealand passport you can stay a maximum of six months; I only need three weeks.

Met by my cousin and her husband at Larnaca airport, I'm whisked away on modern motorways to Limassol district and on to Pissouri village, 800 feet above sea level.

For a country with a population of only 800,000, the roads are wonderful, with plenty to see from the car as we glide on an asphalt surface up the southwest coast of the island at 100kmh.

It's about 1 ½ hours from Larnaca to Pissouri, passing through Limassol, a long, spread- out city with no high-rise buildings in sight, but a busy sea port with many ships waiting at the harbour entrance for berths.

With Limassol now temporarily behind us, we continue to our final destination, Pissouri village.

Mountainous and pale, the landscape is dotted with carob and olive trees, accentuated by a lovely stretch of azure sea.

Road signs are in Greek and English, and the road rules are the same as New Zealand's, except that our former old right-hand rule is the norm here. Signage indicates many places of historic interest open to visitors on this island - which is off the coasts of Turkey, Syria and Lebanon - and divided since 1974 by the Turkish-occupied north and the Greek-speaking Republic of Cyprus in the south.

Popular destination Aphrodite's Rock - named after Greek mythology's goddess of love and beauty as her birthplace - has easy access off the coast road between Limassol and Paphos.

It's a stunning white-rock formation jutting out of the ever- changing blue hues of the Mediterranean. Legend has it that if you swim around the rock three times you will get eternal life. Unfortunately, some people attempting the treble have drowned because of the strong undertow around the rocks.

Apollo's Temple at Kourion, not far from Limassol, is another site not to be missed. Here lies the ruins of a Roman city dating back to the fifth century BC. The main attractions are under-excavation Roman baths, drainage and the centrepiece, the remains of the Temple of Apollo. Also on the same enormous site is a stunning amphitheatre, built by the Greeks in the second century BC and extended by the Romans - and still in use.

Further to the west of the island are many historic sites, including a restored castle near Limassol built by Richard the Lionheart, self-proclaimed King of Cyprus. The site has an amazing Christian fresco on the wall in the ground- floor chamber.

All new housing is built to last, mostly with private swimming pools.

Most homes are two storeys or split level, and constructed of reinforced concrete and brick with concrete render. Painted typical Mediterranean colours with terracotta pan-tile roofs, they are attractive, clean and modern.

Sitting on my cousin's terrace on a warm evening I can see tall ocean liners making their way up the coast, their white superstructures resplendent against the Mediterranean.

A stark contrast to modern housing estates is 400-year-old Pissouri, a terraced village carved out of the hillside. The narrow streets in some cases connect via long flights of stone steps from one level to another. Most of the restaurants can be found in the village square, where a blaze of colourful sun shades protect the summer diners seated outside. In addition to taverns and two convenience stories the village has two major Cypriot banks.

At one end of Pissori village, a long winding road leads to Pissouri Beach.

The drive, down a steep mountain, takes 10 minutes but has an excellent surface, passing through farmland. The beach itself is fabulous - hotels, restaurants and taverns. There are also convenience stores, and lounger and jet ski-hire facilities and a scuba-diving rental service.

The beach is safe for swimming. There are no lifeguards, and no waves to speak of, so forget about surfing. But there is plenty of sun and peace and quiet.

Alcohol is alarmingly cheap and can be bought anywhere, even at the convenience stores. Most top brand spirits cost about €9 (NZ$16) a litre.

The big local brand of beer is Keo, and it's pretty good, readily available and cheap.

Cypriot people are very welcoming and friendly, and also very trusting.

It seems unusual in the village to see a locked door. Vehicles are often left with key in the ignition. The level of trust extends to the outdoor seating for all the restaurants; exactly how they keep tabs on who has paid for their meal and who has not is a wonder. Tipping is not the norm, but the service is so good and the meals so reasonably priced, you may find yourself leaving a tip, as I did on a few occasions.

A nice lunch consisting of fresh fish, salad and chips for two people is about €12 (NZ$21.30). They are not big on desserts but a fresh fruit platter is available, and sometimes baklava is on the menu - a traditional sweet Greek dessert. Alcoholic drinks are again reasonably priced; spirits shots are triples - so be aware of this if you are driving.

The tastes and aromas of Cyprus are many. Fresh oranges, bananas and melons of different varieties are freely available. Simply by eating the local cuisine I shed about three kilograms in the first two weeks of my holiday, yet I never felt hungry. Chilled bottled water is freely available and essential if you are exploring in the relentless afternoon sun, as is sun block and a good wide- brimmed hat.

Paphos is a delightful sea port on the southwestern coast with many attractions. Ancient ruins include Tombs of the Kings and the House of Dionysus with remarkable mosaic floors to view, plus an old stone fort right on the sea front.

Anglers are pretty much guaranteed to catch fish along the coastline; the locals have their favourite spots which they are keen to share.

Most of the antiquity sites are only €1.75 (NZ$3.10) to enter and have clean toilets and places to sit out of the scorching heat,

Paphos has wonderful street markets for the bargain hunter, offering good-quality clothing, trinkets, jewellery and linen. There are stunning leather goods from Italy, including shoes and handbags, while Murano glass jewellery, also from Italy, is a nice little gift to bring home.

The seafront restaurants are excellent. All have wonderful views of the harbour with its many small boats.

One day tends to melt into the next and it's tempting to stay in one particular spot, but time is of the essence and more of this intriguing island is waiting to be explored, especially the Troodos and the Turk-occupied northeast.

- © Fairfax NZ News