Greece's seamless blend

BY BRENDA WEBB

If it hadn't been for Roman emperor Nero and his golden pickaxe, and the blood, sweat and tears of 6000-odd Jewish prisoners, we wouldn't be here.

Here is Greece's Corinth Canal – the scenic and spectacular quick route for boats that links the Sea of Corinth in the west of Greece with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea in the east.

It makes an island of the Peloponnese (commonly called a peninsular) and creates a 400-kilometre shortcut for boats. The amazing 6km canal cuts a 23-metre-wide gash through solid rock that rises to 90 sheer metres in parts, creating an imposing sight for sailors who pass through it and motorists who drive over it. It's a popular route for small cargo ships, cruise liners, fishing boats and yachts. It is used by 11,000 boats each year..

It was in 602BC that the concept of cutting a canal was first proposed by Periander, second tyrant of Corinth. The task proved too big and a slipway was instead built, across which sailors dragged small ships on rollers. Roman emperor Octavion had his ships dragged across here during his pursuit of Anthony after the Battle of Actium.

Over the years many influential leaders considered building a canal, including Alexander the Great, Caligula and Julius Caesar, but it was Nero who struck the first physical blow with a golden pickaxe, leaving the hard work to Jewish prisoners. But the project was left to languish when the Gauls invaded Greece. It wasn't until 1869, when the opening of the Suez Canal provided inspiration, that the Corinth Canal project began in earnest. It took several attempts by various companies before the canal was finally completed and opened in 1893. Its opening turned Piraeus, near Athens, into a major Mediterranean port.

The canal, a popular short-cut for cruising yachts heading east or west, had been on our list of things to do since buying our yacht, Bandit, in the Mediterranean five years ago. But, at $500 for our 14 metres, it wasn't something we were rushing into! In fact, the Corinth is the most expensive canal (lengthwise) to transit in the world.

When we headed east from the Ionian Sea a few seasons ago, we opted to go around the Peloponnese, a stretch of beautifully indented coastline dotted with small villages with relatively few tourists. Heading west this season, the canal offered a sensible shortcut.

After spending time sailing in the picturesque Saronic Gulf, we headed to Corinth and spent a night anchored near the eastern entrance of the canal, watching as a constant flotilla of vessels entered and exited – super yachts, fishing boats, freighters and dozens of cruising yachts. Early next morning we tied up to the dock to complete formalities before the flag was raised, allowing us to enter.

We let our lines go and headed off under motor. At the eastern and western entrances are hydraulic traffic bridges that lower into the water, allowing boats to enter the canal. There are also several road and train bridges high up. lt's an amazing feeling to motor slowly through the sheer cliffs that rise almost vertically above you. They must be an intriguing sight for those at the top who peer down.

More than 12 million cubic metres of soil was removed in the canal's construction and, intriguingly, today's canal follows Nero's original plans almost to the dot. The canal has not been without operating difficulties. In 1944, the retreating Germans planted explosives in the canal which caused a huge collapse that took five years to repair. The limestone cliffs require constant upkeep and the canal is closed one day a week to enable work crews to do maintenance.

The Corinth Canal isn't the only amazing engineering feat in this area. Further down the Sea of Corinth is the astonishing Rion suspension bridge which crosses the Gulf of Patras, linking the mainland with the Peloponnese. At 2880 metres, it is the world's longest multi-span cable-stayed bridge.

It is considered an engineering masterpiece due to the deep water in the area (up to 65 metres), insecure foundations and regular seismic activity. To counter this, the piers sit on levelled beds of gravel designed to move laterally in times of seismic activity. Work on the bridge began in 1998 and was finished just a week ahead of the 2004 Greek Olympics at a total cost of 630 million (NZ$1.13 billion).

It's a fascinating experience to sail the Sea of Corinth, seeing both ancient sites and modern engineering feats. The sacred site of Delphi, with its famed temples, is on the north coast, as is the ancient fortified harbour of Navpaktos which, intriguingly, has views across to the very modern Rion Bridge. The old and the new blend beautifully.

- The Marlborough Express