Travelling through Arab lands

ARID TRIP: Bob Maysmor's images from his travels through the Middle East illustrate the beauty and diversity of the region.

Three's company: A hoarding of Bahrain's ruling triumvirate.

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Shopping in a typical Arab market.

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The ancient streets and souks have recently been witness to much less peaceful scenes.

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Traders sell qat, a mildly narcotic leaf that the male populace in Yemen indulges in each day.

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Shibam, in Yemen, is now a Unesco World Heritage site.

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BOB MAYSMOR

DISTINCT ARCHITECTURE: Shibam, a town in Yemen that is now a Unesco World Heritage site.

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For those who have travelled in the Arabic-speaking world and experienced the generous Middle Eastern and North African hospitality, the recent popular uprisings and unrest will bring both hope and sadness.

Memories of new friendships, unique cultural experiences amazing sights make this region my favourite in the world and one that has drawn me back on many occasions.

Tunisia is a haven of Roman ruins and relics, of kasbahs, souks and medinas, of date palms and charming towns. In short, it is a traveller's paradise, its attractions as diverse as its landscapes.

A visitor meandering the tree-lined streets of Tunis, or riding the electric trams that carry people to the suburbs, could almost imagine they were in southern Europe rather than on the continent of Africa.

On the surface, this secular state seemed to have the hallmarks of stability but the pressures of low economic growth, corruption, unemployment and lack of political freedom fuelled Tunisia's most recent Jasmine Revolution. It became the foundation stone of the popular uprising that has swept across North Africa and throughout the Middle East.

In 2008 when visiting Kairouan, a  town in central Tunisia, I had chatted with Tariq, the owner of a carpet shop located just within the gates of the medina.

"The tourists don't come here any more  just the odd traveller like you. Business has been poor for several years now,'' Tariq told me.

He  spoke of the many shops that had closed and traders who had moved to Tunis in search of work. Despite the doldrums, everywhere I travelled in this country the people were friendly and welcoming, reflecting the traditional hospitality of the desert regions.

Despite its harsh aridness, the beauty of the desert is hard to surpass but sadly on its periphery, wherever there are settlements, the desert sands are littered with tin cans and bottles, with plastic bags and abandoned vehicles.

Knowing the leader's tribal background and love of the desert environment, I wrote to Gaddafi suggesting that his army could be used to clear the desert of debris. Not surprisingly he did not reply.

Since my first visit to Cairo in 1972, Egypt has remained a favourite. Minarets and facades looming with lavish ornamentation towered above as I explored the Khan el-Khalili quarter, a medieval complex of madrassas, mosques and mausoleums.

Nearby at the southern end of Sharia al-Muizz, the roadside was lined with a multiplicity of stalls. Platters of chopped chicken parts, fish sleeping on beds of ice, mouth-watering grapes and coconut-encrusted cookies were on display. Nearby, pigeons in plastic crates cooed as a man dispensed glasses of liquorice water. I jumped as a truck passed close enough to peel the oranges stacked on an adjacent stall.

A woman glided past, ghost-like in her black abaya and full facial veil, her eye slit filled by pink-framed sunglasses. Back at my hotel, across the road under a gaudy cinematic billboard, men sat chatting and smoking shisha at a cafe. It was an enduring sight, a glimpse of everyday Cairene lifestyle.

There is an underlying charm in such scenes, which generates a fondness for this eternal city. Sadly, since that visit, the city has erupted in an explosion of mounting political frustration and sectarian violence.

During the 1980s Bahrain was the darling of the Middle East, a haven for expatriats earning big dollars and living the good life. In 2007 Bahrain seemed a bit scrappy.

Several large modern complexes were being built on the shoreline but the capital of Manama seemed tired. Giant billboards of the three top guns, Sheikh Hamad the King, his son the crown prince, and his uncle the prime minister, decorated the foreshore freeway.

As in Libya, and other dictator regimes, such images of self-glorification hint at an oppressive government. In conversation with a group of taxi drivers sitting outside one of the city hotels, it was obvious that all was not well within the state of Bahrain. Their words were full of malice and contempt towards the ruling family.

I wandered to the edge of the city where on the island of a large traffic roundabout the Pearl Monument, consisting of six stylised dhow sails, reached up to the sky, holding in its uplifted arms a pearl - symbolising the united heritage of the Gulf States and the nation's long history of pearl cultivation.

In the early days of the recent anti-government protests the monument became the gathering place and symbol of resistance. Subsequently this icon of unity was torn down by the government who announced "it had been violated and desecrated by the vile protesters".

Yemen is probably my favourite country. From the cliff-hugging rock-built villages of the north to the remarkable mud-brick towns of the Wadi Hadramawt in the south, this intriguing nation seems almost timeless. Its capital, Sana'a, has been inhabited for more than 2500 years and contains a wealth of architectural treasures.

Apart from its stunning scenery and remarkable architecture, the country is renowned for qat, a mild narcotic drug that the male populace indulges in each day. In a country rife with unemployment, poor economic conditions and corruption, this substantial daily cash outflow defies belief.

Perhaps it was the escalation of these social conditions, threatening the national pastime, which led to the protests in Yemen. Demonstrations and rallies demanding the resignation of the president have led to the death of more than 160 people, numerous military defections and resignations of government ministers.

Ignoring stories of the ruthless control that former President Hafez al-Assad had wielded and accusations that Syria was a hotbed of terrorism, I visited this hospitable country with its wealth of attractions. Fabulous sights include the ruined Roman city of Palmyra and the famed Krak des Chevaliers, once described by Laurence of Arabia as the finest castle in the world. Damascus, the capital, is a gem - full of wondrous old buildings such as the elegant Umayyad Mosque, perhaps the most eloquent example of Islamic architecture.

Although aware of secret police loitering in hotel lobbies, I felt safe in Syria. As a Damascus taxi driver happily told me "Not anyone will do for you something bad".

On the death of Hafez al-Assad in 2000, his son, Bashar, became the new president. Syrians hoped for a softening of the hardline rule that the former leader had imposed.

The slaughter of hundreds, perhaps a thousand, of political protesters in recent months has shattered those wishful dreams.

Remarkably, troubled lands such as Uganda under Idi Amin, Pol Pot's Cambodia and Vietnam with its war ravaged years have all healed with time. Travellers and tourists have returned to help rebuild damaged economies. Hopefully a similar revitalisation will occur throughout the lands of the Middle East.

HINTS FOR EASY TRAVEL IN ARAB NATIONS

Try to learn some Arabic, especially words of greeting and thanks. This will help you to communicate and show the local people that you respect their language and their culture.

Dress conservatively. Women should avoid low necklines and bare shoulders and men could also avoid casual clothing such as singlets and shorts. Western swimwear may be acceptable at resort hotels but on public beaches women could wear a T-shirt when swimming.

Always ask permission before entering a mosque and usually try to avoid prayer times.

Try to harmonise with the people around you. Don't carry a flash camera around your neck, wear expensive jewellery or dress in flamboyant colours or clothes. In any country where there may be economic hardship try to merge with the crowds carry a local newspaper or a plastic shopping bag and keep a low profile.

Always ask permission to take photos of people and acknowledge with understanding if declined.

At any time when confronted with an altercation or demonstration, turn around and walk away return to your hotel, a public building such as a museum or just another part of town. Consider avoiding travel during election periods. Emotions can run high and occasional civil unrest may occur.

During Ramadan,  a time of fasting for Muslims, if you must eat during the day then do it discreetly and in private. Why not try joining the locals fast during the day and when the sun goes down eat with the people celebrating on the streets.

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