Abel Tasman amble

BY PAUL RUSH

Golden summer days are simply beautiful on the Abel Tasman coastal walk in north-west Nelson, but the serenely placid, silver days of autumn are just perfect.

I'm sitting in the porch of Meadowbank Homestead taking in an idyllic scene. The tide is pushing into the inlet, creeping over the golden silica sands in a timeless ritual. The sky is deep blue, the air cool and crisp, the sea a soft translucent turquoise.

Our group of walkers on Wilson's three-day guided walk on the Abel Tasman track have this picture-postcard scene to ourselves. The summer hordes are safely back home with their memories. The sparkling beaches are virtually empty and the murmuring streams and fairy glades are ours to enjoy.

Our walk through New Zealand's smallest, most accessible and most popular national park begins in Motueka. Tour guide Connie, from Germany, is strikingly tall. She works summers in Nelson and winters in Nepal.

We appreciate her wry sense of humour when she says, "We need to know if there are medical people on the trip - we don't need to know the lawyers." As it happens, Sasha from Britain used to be a lawyer. Mike and Nori are from the United States and plan to kayak the last leg of this trip. Alan and Janice hail from Paraparaumu and Alex and Paula from Britain. Paula is a Kiwi but moved to London "for the weather".

Our happy band of trampers is taken by bus to Kaiteriteri Beach to board the Wilson's catamaran. During the two-hour cruise to Totaranui, assistant guide Averil points out a quaint cove. Medlands Beach used to have one of the few remaining 1950s-style private baches along the coast, which were required to be demolished on the death of the owner.

It seems that Mr Medland's son, Vern, occupied the bach for five years during which time the local ranger made numerous visits asking after the father's health and whereabouts. Each time, by an amazing coincidence, he was out fishing, hunting or visiting Nelson. When Vern's bluff was called, the ranger became threatening. "You know what you have to do, Vern, or we'll do the demolition. By the way can I have the oven out of the bach?"

Vern was so incensed that he stuffed sticks of dynamite into the oven and blew the bach to smithereens. All that survived was the toilet seat, which he cemented on top of nearby Pinnacle Island and called it "The loo with a view". It was replaced recently by a radar antenna. The oven door was found later on the hill above the bach.

"All our movements over the next two days will be dictated by the tides and today we plan to cross Awaroa Inlet at the 3.30pm low," Connie explains at our briefing on Totaranui Beach. "When you arrive at Meadowbank Homestead your overnight bags will be waiting for you in the rooms - we are tramping in style."

When friendly mosquitoes join our party, she has more comforting words. "We need these critters to keep us moving, otherwise people just stop and stare at the marvellous scenery and block the track."

We hug the coastline on the easiest stretch of the 38km track and then enter the fairy dell called Pound Gully where the melodious chimes of bellbirds ring out in the still air. This is virgin forest, whereas much of the track is regenerating after the extensive clearing by the early settlers.

Connie revitalises us with honey dew from fungi-blackened beech trees. The pure glucose is sustaining and comes in minute droplets, which we collect on our finger tips, relishing every succulent drop. Connie tells us about the female scale insect, which penetrates the bark, taps into the tree sap and excretes the by- products through an anal tube sticking out of the bark. "The excreta forms tiny droplets that look like morning dewdrops," she says.

Meadowbank Homestead is an elegant replica of William Hadfield's grand 1884 two-storeyed home built for his wife Adele on the best foreshore site in Awaroa Bay. Our group settles into comfortable rooms named after the original family members and enjoys a hearty home-cooked meal, fine local wines and some sinfully rich desserts.

Another crisp, still day dawns and we are offered a breakfast choice of "omelette or ancient crushed grains" which we correctly deduce is porridge in Connie- speak.

The lodge is almost too comfortable to leave, but we climb over Tonga Saddle, take a refreshing paddle in the shallows of Onetahuti Beach and reach Tonga Quarry, where there are rough-sawn granite blocks from the batch that provided foundations for Nelson Cathedral and the old Parliament Building in Wellington.

Connie has a cornucopia of treats for the Bark Bay lunch stop including tuna, muesli bars, cake, coffee, hot chocolate and camomile tea plus a surprise bottle of wine plucked ceremoniously from her bulging backpack.

Descending through the bush to Torrent Bay inlet we realise we are an hour too early to cross the channel on a falling tide. Connie wades in to find the water is thigh-deep and makes the magnanimous offer to carry her people across.

One fearless individual steps forward in a spirit of camaraderie and whimsicality and is hoisted on the powerful shoulders and carried to safety. Halfway across he has a sudden onrush of fear thinking Connie is intent on plunging her burden in the tide. The rest of the party make their way safely across under their own steam. Connie is frequently commended for both leading the group and carrying it as well.

Torrent Bay Lodge retains all the charm of the Wilson family's relaxing holiday home, sitting just above the tide line on the edge of a golden beach. The lodge is renowned for its hospitality, having taken in all manner of lost, hungry and injured trampers. One senior recorded his ordeal in the visitors' book. "This old crock fell on a rock, arm in a sling, still managed to sing."

New Year parties can be especially lively. The iron-support poles in the centre of the lounge have even inspired some refined gentlemen on the cusp of inebriation to pole-dance in their wives' nightdresses.

On day three we skirt the estuary, make a final ascent and wind down to the Marahau track end. While crossing the inter-tidal zone Connie gives us our last gourmet treat, a taste of glasswort seaweed. We are not told what special nutritive properties this tasteless morsel contains, but we eat it out of respect for our intrepid leader.

Kindred adventurous spirits contemplating the Abel Tasman walk should not hesitate. You will enjoy it at any time. It's a park for all seasons, especially autumn.

* Air New Zealand flies to Nelson from Wellington daily.

EXPLORING THE ABEL TASMAN TRACK

Wilson's Experiences offers fully guided tours in the park, from a  two-day sea-kayaking trip to a five-day walking/kayaking trip.  Prices include local transport, equipment rental, instruction,  luggage transfer and full-board accommodation in luxury  beachfront lodges. and range from $700 for a two-day trip to  $1550 for a five-day trip.

Nelson Tasman Tourism: nelsonnz.com

Wilsons Experiences: abeltasmannz.com

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