Paddling in Abel Tasman's wake

COLIN SMITH/Nelson Mail

BACK IN THE PADDLE: There's history around every point on the Abel Tasman National Park coastline.

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The coastline of the Abel Tasman National Park is full of echoes from the past. The names of Adele Island, Torrent Bay and the national park itself hark back to a time when European adventurers were lured to the area.

More than 360 years since Abel Tasman and his men became the first Europeans to sight the northwest of the South Island, the park region attracts people from around the world. They can sample some of the pioneer spirit by chartering a kayak from Marahau Sea Kayaks.

I once took a kayak out when I was aged 10 and spent most of the time hitting myself in the face with the paddle and going in circles. Luckily, the kayaks at Marahau outfit are more stable and are steered with the feet, which makes the going quite easy. They can be taken out independently, or with a guide, and I was in a group of four led by the amiable Tom.

All the kayaking equipment we need is supplied and there is ample space to stow stuff for longer independent trips.

Our first destination as we set out into a cloudy Tasman Bay is Adele Island. The great advantage of the kayaks is their silence, and as we near the island we are greeted by a soundscape of birdsong.

Geology and the sea have conspired to chisel alien-looking shapes into the rock of the coastline as well as giving the sand its golden tinge. Paddling by in a kayak gives you a unique perspective of this and allows you into deserted coves difficult to access otherwise.

Tom keeps up a knowledgeable commentary on our surroundings, while the wildlife highlight is watching some female seals outrun a randy male who has been terrorising them on the rocks of Adele Island. The kayaks let us get close enough to fully appreciate their power and speed as the harassed female seals dart through the water beneath us.

My arms are becoming pleasantly tired as we make our way into Torrent Bay. The tide is high enough to cruise into the bay and float in the wild lagoons, the peace only broken by trampers in the bush rising steeply above us.

I farewell Tom as he drops me in Anchorage Bay near the Aquapackers, the floating boat turned hostel which is my accommodation for the night.

The Aquapackers can cater for up to 22 guests. The owners lay on an evening meal and breakfast, but the best thing on offer is a peaceful night floating beneath the stars.

After a good night's sleep while rocked by the sea, I set off up the coast on foot. The paths are well-trodden and easy going and one must-see stop off is Cleopatra's Pool, where the river has formed a natural water chute just the right size for people to slide down.

Using Marahau Water Taxis means trampers on the coastal track can catch a lift back to civilisation from various points along the way. After tramping to Onetahuti Beach there is just enough time for a bracing swim before I took the water taxi back to Marahau.