36 hours in Paihia

ISLAND CRUISE: Motukokako Island is one of the highlights of the 'Cream Trip.'

A 36-hour sample of the delights of the Bay of Islands.

Thursday, 3pm:

Firstly, a confession. I'm feeling very guilty driving into Paihia that it has taken 14 months since arriving to live in this beautiful country to visit the Bay of Islands. We're staying at the Paihia Pacific Resort Hotel. The location is perfect as the hotel is off the main street, but only 150m from the beach and an easy stroll into the main township. This isn't the Hilton or Hyatt, but the rooms are spacious, spotlessly clean and the kids love the pool and spa facilities, so I'm in the good books with the family early into the trip. The added bonus of staying here is the friendliness of hosts Karen and Stuart. They're hands-on, from the reception check-in to serving in the restaurant, and you can see and feel the extra care factor.

5pm:

Finally win the verbal battle and mind games to get my children out of the pool. Head off to the tennis courts for a social hit in order to prove to the lovely wife that the New Year's resolution to get fit in 2010 wasn't just all talk. Kids con me into another swim before getting ready for dinner.

8pm:

Paihia offers a good range of restaurant and cuisine options, but we opt to eat at our hotel because it offers the unique experience of volcanic hot rock dining. The waitress recommends the Reef and Beef and it's a winner; the scotch fillet is superb.

Friday, 7.15am:

Wander down to the main township and enjoy breakfast at Frank's Cafe, which does great coffee. We need to get cracking now as we have done preciously little pre- planning in terms of an itinerary. There is no shortage of outlets in Paihia selling scores of trips and activities for tourists and visitors to enjoy throughout Northland. It's a competitive business, but the couple of operators we visit in the Paihia wharf area aren't pushy, and give thorough advice about the pros and cons of our inquiries. We book a horse trek and a cruise, but there is some exploring to be done first.

8.30am:

We decide to make a rapid trip over to Russell. We change our minds several times about whether to jump on the passenger ferry at Paihia or drive to nearby Opua and take the car ferry. We opt for the latter and for a family of four it's actually slightly cheaper ($22 return), with the added convenience that having the car allows you to see more at a faster pace. Russell is quaint. Long Beach and swimming in Oneroa Bay has plenty of appeal and is now in the memory bank for a day trip in the future. Russell is well worth a visit, but not a place I would take an extended holiday.

11.30am:

Arrive back at Paihia and take a look around the Waitangi Treaty Grounds where the treaty between Maori and the British Crown was signed on February 6, 1840. With that ticked off the "must do" list we head back into Paihia for a quick bite to eat.

2pm:

As we drive past the Waitangi Golf Club en route to the horse trek adventure, I'm kicking myself that I didn't pack the golf clubs because the panoramic views from the course are stunning. It's only a 3km drive to the stables from Paihia, and there is a strong sense of anticipation on arrival. I'm no John Wayne; the wife remains a little unsure what to expect; the kids are so excited you would swear we had pumped red cordial laced with steroids into them earlier in the day. We are a tad nervous mounting, but fear not, the horses are very placid and the guides are excellent. The two-hour ride through the Waitangi pine forest is relaxing; the views of the Bay of Islands breathtaking and ending the ride with a wade into the Pacific Ocean is a nice way to finish. For the inexperienced rider a sore backside is guaranteed. The ride is not cheap. At $95 per person many of the boat cruises around the Bay of Islands probably offer better value for money, but the kids are still talking about it so the outlay was justified.

5pm:

A relaxing dip in the hotel pool and takeaway fish and chips with a nice glass of wine complete a hectic, but thoroughly enjoyable, day.

Saturday, 8am:

I'm taking the liberty of extending the 36 hours time-frame brief. We just can't resist taking the "Cream Trip" - the most extensive historic cruise in the Bay of Islands. The cruise departs Paihia at 9.30am daily and returns at 4.15pm. Sure, it's a big time investment but it is a memorable experience and I would do it again tomorrow. It's fun engaging from the side of the boat with residents living on the outer islands while dropping off supplies and mail. You never tire of observing dolphins throughout the trip and the chance to do boom- netting is a ton of fun. Commentary from the skipper and crew is first- rate. The internationally famous Hole in the Rock at Motukokako Island is top billing, but we also think the Black Rocks are fascinating. The verdict? Spectacular, relaxing and equally impressive as the Coromandel Peninsula as a destination is my response to colleagues when they ask me about the trip. A return trip to the Bay of Islands is already in the pipeline.

FACT FILE

Where to stay: The Paihia Pacific Resort Hotel, 27 Kings Rd, Paihia. Convenient location and good facilities. Ph (09) 402 8221 or visit www.paihiapacific.co.nz

Where to eat: Plenty of restaurants in Paihia to choose from and a variety of cuisines. Take a walk around the main township and view the menus on display boards. Frank's Cafe along Marsden Rd (across the road from the Paihia Visitors Information Centre) is good for breakfast and The Volcanic Stone Restaurant for the evening.

What to do: Visit Russell and Waitangi Treaty Grounds; definitely do the Cream Trip cruise around the Bay of Islands; pack the golf clubs and play a round at Waitangi Golf Club - even if you're a hacker it will be worth playing just for the views. For more information: www.northlandnz.com; www.dolphincruises.co.nz/the- cream-trip; www.waitangi.net.nz; www.waitangigolf.co.nz

- © Fairfax NZ News