Being prepared for snow

PICTURESQUE: The stunning scenery of the Routeburn.

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'The Metservice has been giving us rubbish forecasts lately," Scott, our lead guide, tells us.

Snow down to 500m? Nope. It's bright and sunny all day. Snow coming later in the afternoon two days later? Nope again. It comes early, at breakfast time.

To be fair, says Scott, it's very hard to predict how fast-moving weather systems zooming in from the Tasman and hitting Fiordland will behave.

So what do you do? Scan the forecasts, sure, but follow that good old Boy Scout maxim, "Be prepared".

Over three days we get scorching sunshine and apply liberal quantities of sunscreen and peel back to T-shirts and shorts; break out full waterproof gear as we sidle round a mountain in the face of driving rain and wind; and pull on woolly hats as snow starts to fall.

On the second day, a helicopter is called in and transports us a short distance over the Harris Saddle and around Lake Harris to avoid avalanche danger. The chopper flies in all but the foggiest whiteout conditions - a tribute to the skill of the pilots.

Not that we find our guided trip overly exhausting or gruelling. It's quite do-able given a reasonable standard of fitness. Our pre-trek training on the Port Hills pays off.

It's also a great test of equipment: One of the several big advantages of the guided option is you don't have to carry food and sleeping bags. It pays to keep your pack as light as possible, down to 7kg or less. My rugged made-in- Montana RedOxx, worn high with no waist strap, works well for me, but won't suit everyone. Goretex waterproof jackets withstand wind and rain. I'd have preferred better gloves and waterproof trousers. My good old Swanndri bushshirt keeps out the cold.

(Ultimate Hikes provide packs, covers, and rain jackets if you haven't got your own; they looked excellent.)

My custom-made McKinlay leather boots (because of my wide feet) prevent blisters. They still get wet, especially after stepping through the snow into freezing water below.

Our merino tops stay remarkably comfortable and don't get sweaty and smelly. Merino beats synthetics, no question.

Another big advantage of the guided option is - the guides. Scott, Brad, and Masa stay jovial and cheery throughout. Where do they get their energy? We reckon it must be youth and large quantities of chocolate.

They know their stuff. Conditions can get hairy very fast and we are totally confident they'll keep us safe and get us through.

We're not so sure about following their example and stripping off and plunging into an icy river or waterfall to cool off. Maybe next time!

All three give us detailed descriptions of the flora and fauna (birdlife, sundew plants that trap insects, wildflowers, mountain beech and mosses), the geography, and regale us with the legends of Emily Peak and Somnus and Momnus.

Much has been written about the rustic charm of Kiwi tramping huts - hard bunks, long drops, ice inside - but as the years go by, such ascetic rigours pall and I must confess to a growing appreciation of comfort. Lake Mackenzie and Routeburn Falls lodges are just the ticket. Soft beds and duvets in warm, cosy lodges appeal. A hot shower on arrival is heavenly. A glass of beer or a wine is a vital health tonic. Food is scrummy, too, especially the steak at Routeburn Falls. After dinner there's the time-honoured pancake- catching competition. Some of us are even successful.

We're a mixed bunch: five from Australia (one ex-pat Kiwi, one ex-pat South African); two from Germany (originally from the Netherlands and the US); one from Ireland; and two Kiwis - us.

Ultimate Hikes is keen to see more Kiwis doing the guided walks. Sure, it's pricier than doing your own thing, but we think it's worth it. For less than the cost of an airfare to Asia and beyond, you experience real wilderness, with comfort and security. We're already planning our next hike.

FAST FACTS: The Routeburn Track guided option takes three days and two nights, and costs $1100 for adults for the low season (April 1-20, and November 1-30, 2010) and $1240 for the high season (from now to March 31, 2010). See ultimatehikes.co.nz.

- © Fairfax NZ News