Whale of a time in the far north

BY JULIE DANN

Driving north there are many places to stop but with the parents in tow I was feeling a bit mischievous.

I wanted to shake them out of city mode and give them a taste of what was in store in the far north.

Cafe Eutopia in Kaiwaka is quirky and an arresting site on the side of the road in this otherwise unremarkable small settlement. Looking more like Noah's Ark, the whole building is the realisation of an artist's fantasy but the food is fine and the coffee good. The Dutch cheese shop next door also does a fantastic mature Gouda which is to die for.

Refreshed, we journeyed onward to Paihia and found a two-bed stylish apartment in the Sea Spray suites right on the beach, for $250 a night. It's just a stone's throw from the Sugar Boat restaurant and bar where we had a dinner reservation.

Our Valentine's Day feast on board the boat moored just by Waitangi bridge was a triumph and the balmy evening was perfect so we stayed on deck and ate as the sun went down slowly over the water.

The food was perfectly cooked and presented and it was a stunning end to our first day exploring.

The next morning we headed off to Doubtless Bay taking the scenic route of course. We explored Matauri Bay, the final resting place of the Rainbow Warrior and fetched up at the fishing club in Whangaroa where sharks, king fish and tuna were all being caught in a big five-day competition. Having sampled the fresh fish on offer, it was a short hop to Taipa Bay where we were to be based for the next five days.

The resort offers clean and tidy bright rooms right on the beach front plus a pool, a spa and a restaurant which serves delicious fresh fish.

You can hire a small fishing boat, kayak in the bay or simply explore the long beach and watch the birds at play. Rooms are spacious and the kitchens have everything you could possibly need. Out on our private patio was a barbecue and table overlooking the sea. Perfect.

A day on the beach was called for, so we packed a picnic and headed just down the road to the Karikari Peninsular at the far end of Doubtless Bay and the little jewel of Maitai Bay. Formerly known as Matai Bay it now has a new spelling according to the local iwi. Top tip here is to take a parasol. The weather was scorchio and shade in short supply but we managed to find a cool spot under a tree before a bit of a snorkel. Big stingrays were spotted, cuttlefish abound and the rock pools provide endless fascination for little ones and grown-ups alike. Worth a diversion on the way back is Northland's newest vineyard. Views from the Karikari estate are worth the trip alone and a chilled glass of bright and fruity sauvignon provided the perfect end to a blisteringly hot day.

The next day we were up early for our 90-mile beach tour of Cape Reinga with Sand Safaris. Everything is provided so all you need to do is keep your eyes peeled and your wits about you for the sand tobogganing.

We met the bus at The Ancient Kauri Kingdom in Awanui which houses a spiral staircase made out of a massive kauri tree and the first stop is Gumdiggers Park.

Our well-informed guide, whose enthusiasm was infectious, made the 20-minute nature trail a real step back in history through the recreated gumdiggers village.

Cape Reinga was well worth the short, steep walk down to the lighthouse to see Te Rerenga Wairua – legendary departing place of Maori spirits – and watch the Tasman and the Pacific meet up in a flurry of waves and currents.

We had a pleasant stop by Tapotupotu beach for a light lunch of sandwiches and muffins.

Next stop Te Paki sand dunes and some serious dune surfing or tobogganing if you want a slightly more sedate pace. Using a boogie board, the speed freaks among us, and I include my husband in this and a few young adrenalin junkies, walked to the top of the highest dune and then came head first down the big slopes.

This is not for the faint-hearted. The first few came down so fast they nearly disappeared under the bus on the far side of the stream at the bottom. My husband did one better and aquaplaned across said stream and ended up in a pile of tangled legs and arms ... covered in blood. Having decided to do it in his sunglasses, they had become embedded into his forehead. The bus drivers were more than prepared for this and after some expert first aid and a strategically-placed bandage we were off again.

The bus then drove along the beach and this is where you should keep a sharp look-out for whales – depending on the time of year – and the wild horses of Aupouri. We were lucky enough to spot a large group of these sleek horses lounging in the sand dunes. I also saw one baby penguin pottering about in the surf along with masses of oystercatchers and terns. The view is breathtaking and the water surprisingly warm when we stopped for a paddle. Oh yes, it's called 90 Mile Beach because Maori said it took three days to walk, clocking up 30 miles a day. Okay we all know it's more like 90km but who's counting, it's beautiful.

There's plenty to see and do to fill the remaining days, including The Matthews' Vintage Collection on SH10 near Taipa Bay.

This is a culmination of 40 years of collecting by former farmers Win and Lyn Matthews and covers all manner of beautiful old cars, tractors, engines, musical instruments, old surgical instruments. There are sheep, birds and horses outside to feed for those who prefer their fun alive and kicking.

If wine is your tipple then there are several vineyards to visit. My personal favourite was Okahu near Kaitaia, which offers free tastings, and all of it is fine wine. The Shipwreck Bay sauvignon was a light bright breath of fresh air.

Mangonui is also worth a few hours of your time. The heritage trail is a steep walk up the hill but the houses are beautiful and unspoilt by development.

One place we found a real must-see was the Whaling Museum at Butler Point – a 15-minute drive from Mangonui. You have to make an appointment but it is worth the effort. The 1840s house of English whaler William Butler and attached museum puts a completely different light on this pleasant backwater, which used to be teeming with American ships hellbent on whale oil. The gruesome and terrifying lives of those men aboard the boats is brought to life by harpoons, a whaleboat and fine examples of scrimshaw housed here.

The Ferguson family, who restored the house and keep it pristine, deserve to be applauded for keeping this treasure for us all .

As we left the endless unspoilt beaches of the far north we all reflected on what brings people to this far flung remote beauty.

On the way back an unlikely trip to the toilets of Frederick Hundertwasser in Kawakawa proved enlightening. This fearless and creative soul came here and created his own little piece of lavatorial heaven.

Julie Dann was hosted by Taipa Bay Resort.

ESSENTIALS

Taipa Bay Resort: One two-bedroom suite, 20 one-bedroom suites and 10 studios. Two bedroom suite is $255 off season a night, $295 shoulder season or $335 in high season. All units have super king-sized beds and offer a truly tranquil setting. The resort also has a tennis court and swimming pool and offers petanque and volleyball. taipa@taipabay.co.nz. www.taipabay.co.nz. or 09 406 0656.

Karikari Estate: $12 to taste five wines, $20 for a bottle of sauvignon. The cafe offers good food and there is a dinner menu too.

Gumdiggers Park: www.gumdiggers park.co.nz or 09 406 7166. Sand Safaris: www.gumdiggers park.co.nz. or 09 408 1778.

Matthews' Vintage Collection: www.matthewsvintage.com. or 09 406 0203.

- © Fairfax NZ News