Boundary striders

WELCOME SIGHT: Boundary Hut in the South Ashburton Valley.

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An old hut on the bank of the South Ashburton River might be spartan, but it's reliable and provides grand relief in a storm.

Heavy rain streams off my parka, soaking into my leggings and cooling me sufficiently to warrant securing my parka domes to the neck and tightening the hood around my face.

The strong nor'wester that had buffeted our campsite at Lake Heron in central Canterbury the previous evening has pushed eastwards, towards the plains, allowing a frontal band, heavy with rain, to advance over the alps and drench Father John Adams and I as we stride into Boundary Hut in the South Ashburton Valley.

This catchment, Lake Heron, Mt Potts, Taylor Range, and Mt Somers are contained within Hakatere Conservation Park, a cluster of reserves between the Rakaia and Rangitata rivers administered by the Conservation Department.

The way ahead to the hut is easy: a 4WD trail over a modest pass through rippling plains of tussock, dipping into the South Ashburton where Boundary Hut stands on the bank of a stream.

Our arrival is twice blessed. First, the rain rolls back, the frontal clouds ripped away to reveal a dazzlingly blue sky, and arresting high-country views. Second, the old hut has been refurbished: painted, cleaned, new bunks, table and chairs. Chuffed, we unload gear for lunch and spread assorted items around the hut's spacious interior, enjoying the spartan comfort of our high-country manor.

The downside of all this is the wind, which regularly bombs the corrugated walls and roof with bursts of unmitigated fury, attempting to roll back our sturdy shelter. "No show," I say to Fr John. "This old hut's been here a good while and withstood many a storm worse than this one."

With the afternoon ahead we head up the steep incline behind the hut that heads west over the Dogs Range to Potts River. The wind is fearsome up there and we double over in an effort to make headway against the gale.

The alps are sheathed in cloud but the lower country is clear, granting us a great view into the Rangitata Valley and later a fine perspective of Mystery Lake, a sliver of spume- flecked blue secreted in the folds of the hillside beneath Dogs Range. It's a small reward for enduring a sound lashing from the wind. I descend briefly to its shore before following Fr John back over the tops to the hut.

Relief is entering a hut in a windstorm; you can actually think and hear.

Later, a fellow adventurer arrives - Geoff, a hunter who is heading farther into the park over the next five days. He proves good company and we share a few stories of places known and unknown, of gear, work, plans and faith; he even joins us in the Mass that Fr John offers in the hut - a regular feature of our tramps together.

Night brings a clear sky, myriad stars and a cold hut; there's little to burn in these parts, but we are content to light a candle and settle into sleeping bags with a book and a slowly easing gale on the roof.

Departure day begins early, there are appointments to honour in town, and it is still dark as we farewell Geoff and close the hut door, striding out along the trail as the eastern sky gently lightens with the sun.

Access: About 3km south of the South Ashburton River Bridge on the Hakatere Heron Rd, an unmarked dirt road heads northwest to reach Hakatere Conservation Park; 2WD vehicles can proceed about 3km along this road.

Time: 2-3 hours to Boundary Hut.

Grade: Easy.

Map: J35.

Pat Barrett has written several walking guide books that cover this region and other areas. See patbarrettimages.co.nz.

- © Fairfax NZ News