Madness on mancation

PETER MEECHAM/Fairfax

NAKED BEAUTY: Chilly thrills for nude rugby supporters ahead of an All Blacks test in Dunedin.

The vocal cords were well and truly limbered for Carisbrook's grand finale. After 127 years and numerous international rugby tests, the curtains finally came down on one of New Zealand's most iconic sports grounds in June with the All Blacks taking on a fired- up Welsh outfit.

"I'll be sad to see the old girl go," Jim, the taxi driver, says as we pass Carisbrook on the way into town. "She's seen some memorable games of footy that's for sure. Tomorrow night should be a cracker of a sendoff."

I'm on a 48-hour rugby weekend. A "mancation" if you like. On the itinerary is a healthy list of activities including a hearty feed at the locally famous Otago Farmers' Market, a sneak preview of the new Forsyth Barr Stadium, a tour of Speight's Brewery, the annual students' nude rugby game, and, of course, terrace tickets to the final international rugby game at "The Brook".

"We have to go the long way round to your hotel because they've blocked off the Octagon," Jim says. Dunedin is gearing up for the big weekend. The town centre has transformed into a tent village, bars extend on to the streets. Welsh fans waste no time in familiarising themselves with the local brew.

Dunedin has always been famous for its rugby, and equally famous for hosting. It's all here - atmosphere, friendly locals and a bar stool with your name on it. The city, with its remarkable Victorian and Edwardian architecture - the legacy of the city's late 19th century gold-rush affluence - is brimming with antiquated charm. From the grand Gothic First Church to the Flemish renaissance-style central railway station, Dunedin is possibly the "best looking" city in New Zealand. Yet tucked between the grand old buildings, the city oozes sophisticated and modern charm blended with retro Kiwi cool. Whether it's a single-shot, semi-skim decaf latte and gluten-free aubergine and feta tart, or an instant coffee, potato-top pie and a jam roll you're after, the eatery of your choice is just around the corner.

And, as far as retro Kiwi stadia are concerned, time is just about up for the grand old lady of Carisbrook. While there are some who are sad to see The Brook's demise, it is to be replaced with a spectacular facility. Forsyth Barr Stadium is due to be completed by next August, in time to host three 2011 Rugby World Cup games. The 30,500-seat stadium, being built on the edge of the city centre, will be New Zealand's first fully enclosed grass stadium with a retractable heavy-duty clear plastic roof. On test-day the builders down their tools as thousands come to the new stadium site and inspect the future home of Otago rugby. By the front gates a couple of scarfies sell barbecued $1 sausages wrapped in bread.

Later, the crowds drift across the road to Logan Park to watch the Nude Blacks take on the Welsh Leeks in the annual nude rugby fixture. About 2000 people cram around the sidelines as 12 naked gentlemen trot out of the sheds for the six-a-side game. Teenage girls giggle, grandmothers chuckle, but the biggest roar is reserved for the clothed streaker who is eventually carted off the paddock by a woman "police officer" wearing nothing but a blue hat. As former All Black Richard Loe, clutching a ref's whistle in one hand and a pint of beer in the other, signals fulltime, the victorious Nude Blacks do a lap of honour holding aloft their trophy - a plastic toilet seat wrapped in ribbon.

What started as a way to warm up before an international test rugby test has grown to become an unofficial annual test curtain-raiser that attracts international media, curious onlookers and those seeking a bit of a laugh. Next year, organisers say, they are planning a nude netball game for any keen lassies out there who aren't afraid to bare it all.

It was then on to The Brook.

Walking out on to The Brook's northern terraces, the stadium looks tired, but she has scrubbed up well for one last outing. It's a full house, and as the clock ticks closer to 7.35pm, punters armed with meat pies and plastic bottles of beer slide into their seats.

The All Blacks emerge and the crowd go wild. It's the haka then kickoff, and not long afterwards, the first of many Mexican waves sweep past. A few minutes before halftime a few canny spectators duck off to the beer and hot chip stands to beat the crowds.

One spectator, clearly impressed by the Nude Blacks' earlier exploits, attempted a final last streak before an international test crowd at The Brook. As the full-time hooter blared out over the frosty night, a row of burly security guards suddenly jumped into action and a scarfie is duly marched away in his birthday suit.

As the crowds filtered out of The Brook, impressed with the All Blacks' 42-9 demolition of Wales, attention turned to celebratory drinks. And Dunedin is certainly not short of famous watering holes to toast the All Blacks' sweet victory.

* The writer was hosted by Tourism Dunedin.

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