Sunken bath affords view of city lights

LAIDBACK VIEW: Guthrie Cottage in Eastbourne offers visitors an expansive view of Wellington harbour.

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What was once Bill Guthrie's modest two-bedroomed family home in the then far- flung suburb of Eastbourne has become a boutique holiday house in a now premier location on Wellington harbour's east coast.

Built in the 1930s, the seafront house is lucky to still be standing.

It survived several storms, two of which threatened to send it into the ocean, including the notorious cyclone that led to the sinking of the Wahine. Framed photographs on the cottage walls recall the events that the wee cottage has lived through, including teetering on the edge of the eroded beach. Now the building and its neighbours are protected by a seawall, though the shore is still tantalisingly close.

After Bill's mother died, the cottage was rented for several years, but last December, after months of work, including repiling, restoring the original matai flooring and fitting French doors and central heating, it opened for guests.

The layout of the house is essentially the same as when Bill lived there, and it retains its cottage atmosphere, but the kitchen has been modernised. Up to six people can stay, with two queen bedrooms and a sofa bed in the lounge.

Ali Brown of Licorice Design has given a romantic, comfortable feel to the interior with the clever use of colour and some flamboyant touches in the lounge, such as a chandelier and an ornate mirror above the fireplace. In the bedrooms, lovely linens make an inviting overture, and in the master bedroom, the sea-facing window is framed in floaty fabrics.

A sun-porch has a table for coffee or a meal. The view takes in Matiu/Somes Island, Ward Island, Tinakori Hill, Korokoro, the stadium and Miramar Peninsula. A pohutukawa tree (flowering freely in April, so it must be one of the offshore island species) takes centre stage in the garden.

The surprise of this retreat is its outdoor, sunken bath. Bill felt it was a calmer way to relax than a whirling spa pool, and after spending nearly two hours soaking under the stars, with a glass of wine within arm's reach, I must concur.

If the weather doesn't permit outdoor wallowing, the interior, white-tiled bathroom has both a bath and a shower, including an extra 30-centimetre wide showerhead for a power-showering experience. There's a washing machine, drier and iron artfully positioned out of the way behind folding doors.

Once you've snuggled into the supplied towelling bathrobes, you might want to relax in the lounge, which has an open gas fire, a large TV with DVD player, Sky and surround-sound speakers in the ceiling. There's also, thoughtfully, the latest fashion and home mags to read.

Out the back is a small courtyard with wrought iron table and chairs and a barbecue. But when the sun's going down, the place to be is parked in the Cape Cod chairs on the front deck, watching the activity on the harbour and the parade of locals cycling, jogging, walking their dogs or simply enjoying the day. And later, watching the city lights winking like a hill of giant glow-worms.

And the beauty of this little hideaway is that it's very close to the Eastbourne shops, either a 10-minute stroll down the beach, or a few minutes' drive away. And, unlike some other properties here, you can park you car right outside the house. So, if you've run out of bubbles for the bath or the glass – you can nip out and get more.

For Wellingtonians, it's refreshing to see the city from a different angle and for out-of-towners... what a lovely introduction to the capital.

* Ellen Brook's stay was courtesy of Guthrie Cottage.

Where: 221 Marine Parade, Eastbourne
Sleeps: Six
Rates: Summer (October-April) $220 a night for two, $40 per extra person; winter $180 a night for two, $40 per extra person
Contact: PO Box 41 114, Eastbourne, Lower Hutt, tel (04) 562 0959, fax (04) 562 095, e-mail bill.guthrie@xtra.co.nz, website

- © Fairfax NZ News