A yurt Christmas

CHARLIE GATES

In the headlong summer rush to Akaroa, a leafy retreat on Banks Peninsula is often overlooked.

The Okuti Valley is tucked off to the right just before the state highway reaches Little River.

It is a lush valley that rings to the sound of bellbirds and the occasional tui.

As well as providing a haven for native birds, it is also a perfect place for quake-weary Christchurch residents to escape for a weekend.

It is about an hour from town, you can't feel most of the aftershocks and it feels like its own relaxing little world.

Even better, if you are missing the urban comforts, you can nip into Little River for a great coffee, a slap-up breakfast or a litre of milk.

There are two places to stay in the Okuti Valley, one is the Little River Campground set amid restored bush around the Okuti River, while the other is the Okuti Garden Eco-Stay, a cluster of tepees, yurts and a handsomely refurbished house truck in beautifully maintained gardens.

My partner and I had already booked into the Eco-Stay for the Christmas weekend when the December 23 aftershocks struck. I was pleased we had.

We had decided to stay in a yurt for Christmas. That's right, we were dreaming of a yurt Christmas.

A yurt is like a squat teepee. It is a round structure with lattice walls and a ceiling like a large wooden bicycle wheel. The structure is tightly covered in a stout canvas to keep the weather out.

Our yurt did not have power, but was on a raised wooden platform and had a proper double bed. It was elegant, novel and comfortable. I think this might count as glamping (glamorous camping).

Visitors at the Eco-Stay share a lovely outdoor, covered kitchen and eating area, a composting toilet, a log-fired bath and a solar shower. Owners Jim and Jane offer the perfect blend of friendly and helpful yet discreet service.

The whole place has a hand- crafted feel with elegant gates made from tree branches, stained- glass windows, two donkeys braying over the fence and Nutmeg, the dog, welcoming visitors.

There are wild flowers aplenty and a herb garden that can be used by guests, next to the beautiful communal kitchen.

The only drawback is the nearby stream tends to attract the sandflies. I did leave Okuti with a few red bumps around the ankles.

If you want more than relaxing in the shade with a good book, there are a surprising number of things to do in Okuti.

You can walk up through the native bush of the Okuti Valley Scenic Reserve to enjoy some spectacular views at the top, you can access Peraki Station and Wainui Beach on a hair-raising, unmade road over the summit and there are even two rather ramshackle but perfectly usable tennis courts just five minutes walk from the yurt. The campground down the road offers a very Kiwi take on mud slides. Buckets of water emptied down a steep muddy slope appear to keep kids amused for several hours.

You can also retreat to the friendly Little River Hotel for a pint and a bowl of chips, and the Little River Gallery seems to have a wider range of work on display than in previous years.

So, rather than rush over the hill to the French charms of Akaroa, perhaps lingering in Little River for a short while is not such a bad idea.

Okuti Garden has a basic nightly rate of $40 per adult per night, $20 for a child (aged 5-15), and children under 5 are free. A cooked breakfast is available on request for $15 per person and half price for children. Ph 03 325 1913 or 021 123 2709. Email: okuti.garden@mac.com.

The Little River Campground offers powered and unpowered sites along with some bush-style huts. Details and prices on request. Ph 03 325 1014 or 021 611 820.

- © Fairfax NZ News