Sampling Noumea's delights

BY MANDY EVANS

Last updated 11:00 20/11/2009

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ALL YOU NEED: Mandy Evans with the bare necessities pain et vin.

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Visitors to Noumea, New Caledonia, need to take a credit card and a corkscrew to fully enjoy the pleasures of this French territory's capital. But that's the only hard part.

It's early – 7am on Saturday, yet already the day has begun for many in Noumea, New Caledonia.

While the Anse Vata Bay boulevard where I'm strolling is a popular tourist area, most of the walkers, joggers and swimmers I see greet me with a friendly "bonjour".

The contrast between the nation's cultures shows itself as a group of lycra-clad cyclists whirr past in a chatter of French, while, waist-deep in the water, a lone Kanak man tosses a weighted net after shoals of fish.

New Caledonia is a French territory in the southwest Pacific. Noumea, its capital, is on the main island of Grand Tierre, and is often referred to as the Paris of the Pacific – a reference to its fine dining and boutiques.

Tourism and refining the nickel ore mined on the island are both important industries.

The French language predominates in Noumea.

Elsewhere, both on Grand Tierre and other islands in this archipelago, French may be the official language, but the languages of the Pacific peoples who make up the Kanak population are widely spoken.

Many visitors to New Caledonia spend little time in Noumea, opting instead to visit island resorts or explore the hiking trails, mountains and more traditional ways of life in the smaller villages of Grand Tierre, but it is easy to spend a week in this relaxed seaside city.

We stayed in Anse Vata, one of Noumea's southern suburbs. Despite its many hotels, Anse Vata's pace is relaxed and the people with whom you share the beaches and restaurants are as likely to be locals as visitors. Before work and later in the afternoon, New Caledonians flock to the beaches to sunbathe, play petanque, swim, exercise and socialise.

Our accommodation, Hotel Le Parc, is worth a mention not just for its great rooms, but because of its swimming pool.

The pool's split levels, curved areas and palm-tree gardens within the water create tranquil areas to escape other swimmers.

Anse Vata Bay is popular for watersports such as windsurfing and kitesurfing as well as swimming. Benches and picnic tables dotted among the palm trees make it an easy place to relax.

Nearby is Baie de Citron to the north, its beach often sheltered if Anse Vata is windy – there seemed to be a southeasterly breeze most afternoons.

A short walk south from Anse Vata Bay is Palm Beach. Sheltered and sandy, this pretty beach is popular with locals, as can be seen by the relaxed attitude to topless bathing. Walk to the end of the wooden pier and it's possible to see brightly coloured tropical fish flitting about the piles.

Buses will take you to Kundu Bay, also popular with locals, although we ran out of time to go here ourselves.

For those wanting to see more than beaches, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre delves into Kanak culture and arts. Other places to visit include the Territorial Museum, the City of Noumea Museum and the Maritime History Museum.

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New Caledonia's history is complex and turbulent, with violent clashes between cultures as recently as the 1980s.

A particular highlight for me was a visit to the Aquarium of the Lagoons, showcasing local coral and marine life. Turtles, sharks, sea snakes, eels, nautilus and octopuses feature among the various species of reef fish.

You can buy a pass which gives entry to all the above, plus the Parc de la Forister – the city's zoo and botanical gardens where visitors can view the country's national bird, the cagou.

The town centre features the Place des Cocotiers, with gardens and paved areas to relax in.

The daily morning produce market is another must-visit to sample fresh pastries, buy locally grown produce and salivate over the plentiful fresh seafood.

To get around, local buses run frequently and are easy to catch, although they stop running at about 7pm. Each trip, regardless of length, costs the same. You can buy tickets on the bus, but they are slightly cheaper if you buy them in advance from the bus line office in the town centre.

Regular buses run to destinations beyond Noumea for day trippers, but don't expect to see the whole of Grand Tierre in a day. It's about 400 kilometres long and 50km across at its widest point.

There is also a small tourist train which takes in some of Noumea's highlights.

The Noumea explorer bus is another option, offering a hop-on hop-off service to many attractions.

Those wanting to visit New Caledonia's islands will find options to suit all budgets. Overnight trips and packages are offered to the Loyalty Islands or the famous Isle of Pines. Day trips include snorkelling on the popular Amadee Island, or a Maitre Island Escapade Resort day pass.

Another snorkelling option is to take a water taxi to Isle de Canard in Anse Vata Bay, where there is a special "underwater walkway" for snorkellers.

The island, while appearing sandy from a distance, is actually a coral atoll. Loungers can be hired, although the price is steep and shade umbrellas cost more.

While there is an attractive restaurant set among the trees, the island's highlight is the snorkelling. Far from being an area suitable only for beginners, the "walkway" is actually part of a marine reserve marked by buoys where snorkellers are safe from watercraft. Fish life is varied and abundant, and a highlight for me was seeing a turtle in the wild.

New Caledonia has an undeniable reputation for being expensive, but there are ways to keep costs down. For breakfast, try freshly baked croissants and other pastries at a local boulangerie, or bakery, for a fraction of the cost of a restaurant breakfast. Complement these with papaya, banana or pineapple jam.

Pack a corkscrew and a few basic utensils – there's nothing more relaxing than watching the world go by from your hotel balcony as you sip a French wine with your lunch of cheeses, pates and terrines along with fresh bread, all from a local supermarket.

While grabbing a burger to save a few dollars is still pricey, spending a bit more gives a gourmet experience. Seafood features on many menus. The local prawns are huge and tasty, however they are cooked, as is the tuna.

As well as the restaurants in Anse Vata Bay, a short walk to Baie de Citroen gives the option of about a dozen restaurants lining the boulevard.

Many menus have a strong French influence – if seafood's not your thing, try duck, or frogs legs. Italian restaurants are also popular. While expensive, restaurant meal portions are generous.

English is spoken in many restaurants and tourist spots in Noumea, but learn the basics – even bonjour, au revoir, merci and a friendly smile will go far with those who don't speak English.

For a relaxing holiday with some fine dining and plenty of options for those who want to explore, Noumea shouldn't be overlooked. However, pack your credit card and be prepared for the prices, particularly if you're keen on shopping.

For more information, visit newcaledonia.co.nz

- The Marlborough Express