Guide to Hawaii's volcanoes

BY MARK CHIPPERFIELD

'This is the cheapest real estate in Hawaii," chuckles Richard, our pilot, as we speed across the blackened expanse of lava that was once a thriving suburb. "You can pick up a decent lot for about US$12,000 (NZ$17,000) today - mind you, the eruption knocked out all the roads so there's no way you can actually get to your property."

We're taking a 45-minute helicopter flight across the astonishing - and still highly active - Kilauea volcanic system on Hawaii's wild, desolate and strangely beautiful east coast.

During one major volcanic event in 1997, Kilauea (which means "spewing" in Hawaiian) unleashed a tide of molten lava that pulverised 17 houses on its way to the sea; at its height, the liquid flow field was travelling at more than 97km/h.

A rickety white two-storey house, marooned in a petrified black lava field, is all that is left of the once thriving Royal Garden community - 189 properties were destroyed.

"A friend of mine lost his house down there," the pilot says. "All that's left is a water tank and his old washing machine. Damn shame. Lookin' at buying a place myself. Nearly did."

So intense was the subterranean lava explosion that the tremor could be felt 48 kilometres away in Hilo, the regional capital - a ramshackle affair of clapboard houses, picture theatres and rough-looking bars that has already survived two tsunamis.

"She was a cracker," Richard says. "Knocked all the goods off the shelves at Walmart. Went on for three months before the old girl finally wore herself out."

Not that the volcano is ever quiet for long. Tremors, minor eruptions and lava flows have been routine events since Kilauea - home of the Hawaiian goddess Pele - woke up from its slumbers in 1983.

Volcanologists have now logged 55 major eruptions, making this arguably the world's most active volcano.

Even at its most benign, Kilauea caldera, crowned with a thick greyish plume of smoke and ash, is an awe-inspiring sight and curiously mesmerising. As our Astar 350 helicopter zooms over the East Rift Zone, an underground stream of molten lava is clearly visible through the vast black crust that now covers 117 square kilometres - Pele is constantly redrawing the coastal outline of Hawaii as molten lava spills into the ocean.

"You don't want to touch that stuff. The temperature inside the caldera is said to be 2500F (1371 degrees Celsius)," Richard says, as we follow the jagged coastline, looking for fiery lava tubes. "When the hot lava hits the sea it shatters into millions of pieces like a huge piece of glass."

With the theme music from Raiders of the Lost Ark playing over the helicopter's PA, it's hard not to get carried away by the geological kiss-and-tell going on beneath our feet.

The Astar, a surprisingly quiet aircraft, is equipped with an extra large "mega" window so all six passengers enjoy panoramic views of the Stygian landscape, while the noise-cancelling headsets mean that passengers can easily hear the pilot's commentary and ask their own questions as the tour progresses.

Today, Richard is particularly interested to find a couple of hikers who have been spotted walking on the lava field - although camping is permitted in the surrounding national park, visitors are naturally kept a safe distance away from the volcano.

"If you see anyone down there with their shoes on fire please let me know," he says laconically. "I'd sure love to get them on my video."

Kilauea, one of five volcanoes on the Big Island, has become a major tourist drawcard in recent years.

Despite its constant rumblings and unpredictable lava flows, the authorities are keen for people to explore the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which now offers several hiking trails and guided mountain bike tours.

Keen volcano watchers can stay overnight in one of two designated camping grounds inside the national park or, for something a little more comfortable, at the Volcano House Hotel, which has a number of camper cabins.

Volcano Village is self-contained with a grocery store, laundromat, Thai restaurant, cafe and even a hardware store - an odd thing to find in a national park but then, this is America.

The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (entry fee US$10 a vehicle) is easily accessible by road from Hilo. The 45-kilometre drive takes about an hour. Indeed, so many tourists do this trip that Kilauea is often called the world's only "drive-up volcano".

For those on a tighter schedule, however, a helicopter tour is the quickest and most dramatic way of coming to grips with Kilauea, a volcano that rises just 1277 metres above sea level but has a magma-plumbing system extending to more than 60 kilometres beneath the surface.

But our 45-minute helicopter flight is much more than just a quick introduction to vulcanology - woven into Richard's commentary are observations about the Big Island's history, changing economic fortunes and some of its more unusual inhabitants.

"There are no snakes on Hawaii but there are spiders," Richard says. "About the worse thing, though, is the violin spider. One time I got bitten by one in my waterbed. Never known pain like it. Thought someone was trying to cut my leg off with a chainsaw."

On the homeward leg of the tour, Richard swoops low over the green hinterland behind Hilo to reveal a prehistoric rainforest studded with pristine waterfalls and crystal-clear creeks. There isn't a single road, house or electricity pylon in view.

As the inflight soundtrack shifts into the familiar strains of Deep Forest, the monstrous yet tantalising destruction of Kilauea is replaced by a vision of timeless, Edenic beauty.

For once no commentary - no matter how erudite - is required.

IF YOU GO

Hawaiian Airlines has regular flights from Sydney to Kona via Honolulu. Helicopter volcano flights leave from Hilo, about a three-hour drive from Kailua-Kona.

Pre-book a hire car for about US$72 (NZ$102) a day from Kona International Airport. Dollar Rent A Car, Kailua-Kona International Airport, Hawaii, visit dollar.com.

Safari Aviation offers a basic Volcano Safari (45 minutes) for US$194 a person and its Deluxe Volcano-Coast Safari for US$249 a person. Tours operate every day, weather permitting. Safari Aviation, Commuter Air Terminal, Hilo, visit safarihelicopters.com.

The US National Parks Service is a one-stop shop for the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Visit nps.gov/havo.

- © Fairfax NZ News